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Redirectionalism  

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b R

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b R [details]
FA: August 2, 2011 Joshua Perry & Don Perry.
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 557
Submitted By: donald perry on Oct 30, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Route Topo

Partially closed.

Description 

Redirectionalism is a direct line over The Parousia, it was first done as an aid climb, and thereafter freed on lead.

P1, 5.9: Climb up past two separated right facing corners to an overhang. Traverse right under overhang to another right facing corner over the roof. Climb through this right facing corner to the base of a sickle ramp. Climb up the sickle ramp left to its top and a small ledge.

P2, 5.11: Traverse right a few feet and up to the roof at a notch directly over the sickle. Climb upwards and then left around the left side of a wide black streak into overhangs above and protection. Move back down to belay on a narrow ledge to the left.

P3, 5.12: At the overhangs, climb slight right over small roofs, then left around a large white bulge and up to roof. Under the roof traverse right pasting a small hole 5' to turn the immediate roof in the middle of the next roof above Climbing straight up to belay under the last roof above.

P4, 5.12: Traverse left 6' just before the obvious break in the giant roof. Turn the roof through a hairline crack and small right facing corners that start 6' out over the overhang. Climb up into short right facing corners in the overhang and left a few feet until under another overhang just before the top.

P5, 5.11: Traverse left some more on good holds to a giant left facing outside corner facing New Frontier. Climb over the prow to the top.

Location 

Start 45 right of New Frontier.

Protection 

a lof of small stuff


Comments on Redirectionalism Add Comment
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By donald perry
From: New Jersey
Dec 7, 2016

Rock Climbing Photo: Deleted Variations from January 1979 Don Perry and...
Deleted Variations from January 1979 Don Perry and Michael Burlingame.
By donald perry
From: New Jersey
Mar 13, 2017

Rock Climbing Photo: crux of the 3rd pitch
crux of the 3rd pitch


Rock Climbing Photo: crux of the third pitch
crux of the third pitch


Rock Climbing Photo: 4th pitch
4th pitch


Rock Climbing Photo: 2nd pitch
2nd pitch

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