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Redhead
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Reveil Matin S 

Redhead 1 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c R

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 180'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c R [details]
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Submitted By: Amadeus on Nov 9, 2013

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Description 

This is a climb on the obvious wall next to Reveil La Matin in Area 3.

The first pitch starts with a bolt at waist level (presumably to catch your dead body from rolling all the way down the mountain if you fall before the first bolt) and the next bolt is about 8 meters off the ground. Everything on this climb is super run out. Nothing has been cleaned and there is moss, lichen, and dirt everywhere.

The second pitch is also super run out with the first bolt above the belay station about 6 meters up. Also uncleaned. There are three climbs that share the first pitch and then they split up on the second pitch. This climb goes left from the belay station.

The crux on the first pitch is just keeping your head together so you don't fall.

Location 

To the left of Reveil La Matin.

Protection 

The first pitch has 3 bolts then the anchors.

The second pitch has 5-6 bolts and then the anchors.

Yes it is bolted. No it is not a sport route.


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