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Redgarden - Tower Two

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
10,000 Leagues T 
After The Gold Rush T 
Avoid the Rush T 
Between Heaven and Earth  T 
Bolter's Lament T 
Bolting for Glory T 
Briny Deep, The T 
Cave Pitch T 
Centaur T 
Contest, The S 
Diving Board, The T 
Dizzy Miss Lizzy (aka Scrutiny on the Bounty) S 
Element X T 
Fools Learn TR 
Genius Loci S 
Ghoul's Turn T,TR 
Green Willow Wall T,S 
Inset, The T 
Jules Verne T 
Jules Verne Straight Up First Pitch Variation T 
King Tut T 
Le Void T 
Lene's Dream T 
Love Minus Zero T 
Naked Edge, The T 
Natural Mystic  T 
No Lo Contendere T,S,TR 
Old Bad Aid Crack T 
One Way Out T 
Orifophobia T 
Physical Graffiti S 
Plastic Jesus T 
Predator T,S 
PsychGillLogical T 
Rise Above, aka Mr. Malcontent T,S 
Rosy Crucifixion T 
Scratch and Sniff T,S,TR 
Seams Beyond T 
Seams Beyond Variation T 
Seize of Holds T 
Serpent, The T 
Shasta T 
Sickness Unto Death S 
Slots of Fun T 
Slow Train Coming T,S 
Superlink, The T 
T2 T 
T2 Direct Finish T 
Touch 'N' Go T 
Weeping Willow T 
Wild Kingdom T,S 
Wingless Victory S 

Redgarden - Tower Two Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 39.9312, -105.28518 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 79,269
Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Mar 20, 2006

56° | 39°

51° | 43°

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60° | 44°

67° | 49°

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Redgarden Wall with the Naked Edge in the sun. Nov...

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  • Description 

    Some will arguably consider this the premier section of the premier cliff of the premier area for the Denver Metro area. Many will agree that it contains the premier route for the area with The Naked Edge. This section of Redgarden Wall will include terrain left of Redguard extending to Ruper and including all above the Roof Routes and above the Lower Ramp.

    Wow, what an amazing stretch of rock with an amazing history. It all began, as documneted in B. Godfrey's & D. Chelton's Climb!, with the first ascent of T2 by Layton Kor & Gerry Roach in 1959, starting with the intro by Kor of "want to go climbing tomorrow, Gerry?", "Sure, Layton, what's up?", "Uh, just a route in Eldorado. I'll pick you up at 4 a.m." The climb proceeded as planned with the classic-Kor statements during the ascent of "This route's gotta go!" and Tower Two was opened for climbing.

    The famous Naked Edge began with Stanley Sheperd visualizing a line up this same buttress while reading the lurid novel Naked Edge (which has been made into a movie). The unstoppable Kor followed a terrified retreat off the line with S. Komito with success in 1962 with B. Culp to open this most famous line. In 1971, Jim Erickson & Duncan Ferguson fulfilled Pat Ament's vision of a free Naked Edge. Subsequently, it has become the goal of ultra-bold soloists and even captured on film of the late-Derek Hersey soloing Naked Edge (along with The Diving Board) in Peter Mortimer's excellent Front Range Freaks. However, note this is a bold line has hazards for even gifted climbers. Some may recall the incredible story documented in Jeff Achey's Climb and in an article in Rock & Ice of Coral Bowman, in 1978, who rappelled off her line and in superhuman fashion grabbed and caught herself barehanded with her haul line, & horribly burned her hands. She saved own her life but the experience completely changed her climbing career. So, be careful up there.

    Many videos have celebrated the spectacular climbing here including Peter Mortimer's excellent Scary Faces with its focus on Jules Verne, Beth Bennett & Lynn Hill's video on an early all-female free attempt (title?), and others.

    Some of the classics here include: the popular Touch 'n Go, 5.9; the daring route, The Serpent, 5.10b s; T2, 5.10d s; the intimidating The Diving Board, 5.11a; the ultra-classic The Naked Edge, 5.11b; the demanding Lene's Dream, 5.11b s; Love Minus Zero, 5.11c s: the intimidating Jules Verne, 5.11c s/vs; the near-sport route, The Contest, 5.11d; Green Willow Wall, 5.11d s; Rise Above aka Mr. Malcontent, 5.12a; and the super-exposed Wingless Victory, 5.13b.

    The climbs here are what many of us dream about and live for!

    It would be wise to plan your descents before you leave the ground since none are completely obvious. Many of the lines that go to the top can be descended with at least 4 methods. 1) You can rappel the Swanson Arete or Dirty Deed rappels with double ropes. 2) You can downscramble the East Slabs Descent (plan - to be fleshed out with its own separate description) low 4th class- note this is exposed, lengthy, and particularly slippery when wet. You may wind up a long way from your gear and comfortable shoes. Also, the last bit can be challenging in the spring with a wet slab finish or funky downclimb down a chimney. 3) you can rappel the Chockstone Chimney rappels which take you to the top of the Upper Ramp or Meadows. Here, you can rappel the Vertigo rappels (60m or 2 ropes) or carefully descend the Upper Meadows to the rappels below The Naked Edge. 4) You perform the lengthy traverse W or left off the top going to the top of Redgarden Wall around Hot Spur and into the 3rd class+ gully.

    Getting There 

    To access this section of Redgarden Wall, you should park at the east end of Eldorado Canyon SP, hike uphill briefly, cross the bridge. Here you may choose one of 2 approaches depending on your exact line and preference. To access the furthest R routes, you can hike either around either the L of the The Whale's Tail or you continue upstream, cross the concrete pad, follow the trail, take the right fork and you arrived nearly at the base of T2.

    Climbing Season

    Weather station 0.2 miles from here

    52 Total Climbing Routes

    ['4 Stars',10],['3 Stars',23],['2 Stars',11],['1 Star',8],['Bomb',0]

    Classic Climbing Routes in Redgarden - Tower Two

    Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Redgarden - Tower Two:
    Touch 'N' Go   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 130'   
    T2 Direct Finish   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 140'   
    Bolting for Glory   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
    Rosy Crucifixion   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13     Trad, 3 pitches   
    Seams Beyond   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   
    The Serpent   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R     Trad   
    T2   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R     Trad, 7 pitches, 700'   
    The Diving Board   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 4 pitches   
    Slow Train Coming   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
    Dizzy Miss Lizzy (aka Scrutiny on the Bounty)   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
    The Naked Edge   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 6 pitches, 460'   
    Jules Verne   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R     Trad, 6 pitches, 700'   
    Lene's Dream   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
    Predator   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, Sport   
    Green Willow Wall   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch   
    Genius Loci   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch   
    The Contest   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
    Le Void   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R     Trad   
    Rise Above, aka Mr. Malcontent   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, Sport   
    Scratch and Sniff   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 100'   
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    The Diving Board 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c  Colorado : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Redgarden - Tower Two
    Follow Redguard through pitch 4 (5.8s). Diving Board begins from the pitch four belay of Redguard.P1. Traverse left across an obvious, black ramp (spotty pro, 5.6) to left side of the pigeon flake. Set a belay at a fixed pin, or continue up the pigeon flake.P2. Climbing the left side of the pigeon flake (5.8), clip one fixed pin and belay on top of the pigeon flake (two-bolt anchor).P3. From here, traverse left across an airy shelf, clip 2 pins and power up into the ste...[more]   Browse More Classics in Colorado

    Photos of Redgarden - Tower Two Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Redgarden Wall, showing the major features and the...
    BETA PHOTO: Redgarden Wall, showing the major features and the...
    Rock Climbing Photo: The expansive upper headwall of Tower Two.
    BETA PHOTO: The expansive upper headwall of Tower Two.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Skip Guerin practice climbing on Tower Two, juggin...
    Skip Guerin practice climbing on Tower Two, juggin...
    Rock Climbing Photo: The right side of Redgarden Wall. The South Buttre...
    BETA PHOTO: The right side of Redgarden Wall. The South Buttre...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Tower Two and The Naked Edge
    Tower Two and The Naked Edge
    Rock Climbing Photo: The new bolted rappel anchor at the top of the Upp...
    BETA PHOTO: The new bolted rappel anchor at the top of the Upp...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up T2.
    Looking up T2.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Tower Two
    BETA PHOTO: Tower Two

    Comments on Redgarden - Tower Two Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By ROC
    From: Englewood, CO
    Apr 5, 2006

    The rappel tree on the top of the upper ramp (that puts you more or less at the base of Vertigo) is NOT stable. I was up there last week in high winds and the entire tree was lifting up out of the ground with each gust. I was sitting on the rocks near the tree and was lifted off the ground each time the tree would move. I left a rap anchor that consisted of three equalized stoppers, but I'm afraid the new anchor will be treated like booty gear. The tree may be fine, but under the circumstances I was not willing to trust my life to, "it's probably okay".
    By Ron Olsen
    From: Boulder, CO
    Mar 29, 2007
    ROC wrote:
    WARNING!!! The rappel tree on the top of the upper ramp (that puts you more or less at the base of Vertigo) is NOT stable.

    A bolted rappel anchor was installed near this tree on 8/21/06, after approval by the Eldorado Fixed Hardware Review Committee. See Photo, Photo, Photo for details.
    By Coral Bowman
    May 26, 2010
    In the spirit of accuracy, I didn't actually rappel off the end of my rope. While trying to do the first all-female free ascent of The Edge with Sue Giller, the haul rope got stuck as she led up the third pitch. When Sue returned to the belay at the top of the 2nd pitch (so I could rappel down and free the haul rope from a crack) I quickly set up a rappel on our climbing rope (too quickly it turns out) and started down. When I pushed off to clear a small roof, that pressure flipped open the gates on the two carabiners I'd set up at the belay anchor. Apparently I hadn't reversed the gates and the rope popped out. I did think I was a goner but after falling about 20 feet I came within reach of the haul rope and managed to grab on, though at first I didn't think I would be able to hold it. Unbelievably my hands weren't burned that bad so I was able to unclip the useless rappel rope (after wrapping it around my leg for later) and clip the haul rope in to my "cross carabiner" brake on my waist tape -- while dangling in the air and hanging on with one hand (no harness back then), swing myself back into the rock to pull around the edge and rappel down to the top of the first pitch and clip in. By then my hands were freezing up and Sue helped me retreat. Though I am grateful for my literal strength, I was aware of saying as I looked at the ground zooming up below, prior to seeing the haul rope and grabbing it, "God, I'm not ready to die yet..." Coral
    By James Beissel
    From: Boulder, CO
    Nov 19, 2010
    High resolution panorama of Tower Two (989 megapixels). You'll need Adobe Flash to use the GigaPan viewer.

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