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Redgarden - S Buttress

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Breed Apart T 
Anthill Direct T 
Archer McLanahan T 
Back in Black S 
Backstroke T,S 
Backtalk T,S,TR 
Black Top S 
Blackwalk T 
Book of Numbers T,S 
Bulge Indirect T 
Bulge, The T 
C'est La Fin T 
C'est La Morte T 
C'est La Vie T 
Chromium Shore T 
Cleopatra Says Happy Birthday to Anthony T 
Continue-us T 
Crack Variation T 
Desdichado T,S 
Dessert T 
East Overhang TR 
East Side T 
Edge of Night, The T 
Exodus T 
Flakes, The T 
Genesis T,S 
Genuine Risk  T 
Genuine Risk Takers T 
High Noon T,S 
Horizontal Beginnings T 
Je T'Aime T,S 
La Vie d' Pansey TR 
Le Boomerang T,S 
Left Side of Roark, The T 
Mental Cruelty TR 
Night T 
Noggin T 
Original Anthill T 
PA's Variation T 
Pansee Sauvage T,S 
Pilgrim S 
Pseudo Sidetrack T 
Pseudo Sidetrack, Direct Finish T 
Redguard T 
Restless Nights T 
Semi-Wild T 
Semi-Wild Slab T 
Shades of Gray T 
Sticky Feet T 
To Night T 
Trinity Cracks T 
Vaporizer, The S 
Variation to Lower Meadows T 
Walk the Talk T 
Whistle Stop, The T 
Whittle Wall, The T 
Whittle Whisk T 

Redgarden - S Buttress Rock Climbing 

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Location: 39.93119, -105.28395 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Mar 20, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: Redgarden Wall, showing the major features and the...

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  • Description 

    This section of the cliff is the right most end of Redgarden Wall. It is arbitrarily cut off after the large, obvious, dihedral system which is called Redguard. We will call this South Buttress.

    This section of the cliff is characterized by challenging route finding, slickened rock, and sparse protection options. Perhaps, this is part of that which helped to link the adjective "spicy" with Eldorado Canyon climbing. If close protection is what you require to enjoy climbing, you should climb elsewhere. Routes vary from 30 to 600 feet in this section.

    This is an amazing section of the Redgarden Wall when considering the early history of climbing in Eldorado Canyon SP. History emanates from the rock here and some of it is documented in B. Godfrey's & D. Chelton's Climb! Given the crude equipment available in the mid 1950s, it is awe-inspiring to imagine our climbing forefathers wander up these cliff as they did. In 1956, Dick Bird, Dallas Jackson, Cary Huston, and Chuck Murley climbed what had then be considered unclimbable, Redguard, with Dick Bird leading the first pitch, dubbed the Bird walk, and Chuck Murley deciding to give the last pitch "one last go" on their 3rd and finally successful attempt. There is also the story of the amazing Layton Kor in 1957 getting stuck on these walls requiring a rope from Ben Chidlaw to rescue him. Kor & Chidlaw that year followed this by ascending the very runout route, The Bulge. Subsequently, Kor rappelled down for possibly Colorado's first rap-bolted, retrobolt when others encouraged him to make his line safer for the masses. Thank you, Mr. Kor! Genesis, originally climbed with RURPs in 1962 by J. Turner & B. Culp, became one of early Colorado routes trained for specifically, and was freed by the indomitable Jim Collins in 1979 after training to the point of blood blisters for this specific climb (as documented in G. Randall's Vertigo Games.

    Savories include: the adventurous Pseudo Sidetrack 5.4 s; The Bulge, 5.7 s; the ground-breaking Redguard, 5.8+ s; the ever-popular Anthill Direct, 5.9 s; the exciting Blackwalk, 5.10b s; the mind-control Pansee Sauvage, 5.11b s; Exodus, 5.11b; the super-popular C'est La Vie, 5.9 P1 or 5.11c; the control piece Back in Black to Black Top, the delicious Le Boomerang, 5.11d; Book of Numbers, 5.12c/d s; the former test-piece Genesis, 5.11a P1 or 5.12d s; the overhanging Desdichado, 5.13c.

    Descents vary. Those routes going to the top of the wall typically involve the East Slabs Descent. This can be exposed and intimidating when wet. Also, the last bit can be challenging in the spring with a wet slab finish or funky downclimb down a chimney. Routes that partially up the wall will typically involve rappels.

    Some come and play here, but bring your honed skills and verve, and enjoy!

    Getting There 

    To access this section of Redgarden Wall, you should park at the east end of Eldorado Canyon SP, hike uphill briefly, cross the bridge. Here you may choose one of 3 approaches depending on your exact line and preference. To access the furthest R routes, you go up the trail along the downstream side of the 150 ft tall crag, The Whale's Tail. To access routes behind The Whale's Tail, you can hike either around either the L or R side of the The Whale's Tail with both requiring 3rd class-ish moves (though the L side may be a bit harder). To access the furthest L of the routes in this section, you continue upstream, cross the concrete pad, follow the trail, take the right fork and you arrived nearly at the base of Redguard.

    Climbing Season

    Weather station 0.2 miles from here

    57 Total Climbing Routes

    ['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',21],['2 Stars',18],['1 Star',12],['Bomb',0]

    Classic Climbing Routes in Redgarden - S Buttress

    Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Redgarden - S Buttress:
    Pseudo Sidetrack   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R     Trad, 4 pitches, 450'   
    The Bulge   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R     Trad, 4 pitches   
    The Whistle Stop   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 140'   
    The Flakes   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch   
    Anthill Direct   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R     Trad, 5 pitches   
    C'est La Morte   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 160'   
    Blackwalk   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R     Trad, 4 pitches   
    Backtalk   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R     Trad, Sport, TR, 1 pitch   
    Pilgrim   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
    High Noon   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch   
    The Vaporizer   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 170'   
    Pansee Sauvage   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   
    Exodus   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
    C'est La Vie   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 3 pitches   
    Night   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X     Trad, 1 pitch   
    Le Boomerang   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch   
    Back in Black   5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch   
    Genesis   5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches   
    Book of Numbers   5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 160'   
    Desdichado   5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch   
    Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Redgarden - S Buttress

    Featured Route For Redgarden - S Buttress
    Rock Climbing Photo: Finishing the 2nd pitch (just starting the 5.8 cru...

    Anthill Direct 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Colorado : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Redgarden - S Buttress
    This is an often-overlooked, long route with very good climbing. The run-out is only "5.6", though it feels a bit harder--the rest is well-protected. P1. We started on Touch 'N' Go, which apparently is more common, as we had heard that the original first pitch was mediocre. [Edit: many commentators below are saying that it's worthwhile, as well as easier than Touch 'N' Go.]P2. Surmount a small roof (5.8-) to get off the rotten band and off the belay ledge (or bypass the roof 15' up and left)....[more]   Browse More Classics in Colorado

    Photos of Redgarden - S Buttress Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: The right side of Redgarden Wall. The South Buttre...
    BETA PHOTO: The right side of Redgarden Wall. The South Buttre...
    Rock Climbing Photo: The Magnificent Redgarden Wall.
    The Magnificent Redgarden Wall.

    Comments on Redgarden - S Buttress Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By David Champion
    From: Centennial, CO
    Oct 5, 2007

    There are at least two classic routes--Anthill Direct and Redguard--that finish at the top of the south buttress of Redgarden Wall. The current guidebooks, and the beta on this site, all suggest that the east slabs are the ONLY viable descent from these, and other, routes that top out on the south buttress. This fact alone caused me to resolve some time ago never to climb Anthill Direct again, even though I consider it among the best routes I've ever climbed. Anyone who has descended the east slabs knows what I mean--they are at best extremely annoying and at worst extremely dangerous.

    Here's a far superior alternative: Find the cairn marking the beginning of the east slabs descent at the flat spot just north of the top of Anthill Direct (or, if you've topped out on Redgaurd, in the cleft between tower 2 and the top of the south buttress, look south for this flat spot with a cairn). Go there. Climb UP the 3rd class slab perhaps 75 vertical feet to their top, traverse around the west (left) side of a small pinnacle, and you'll find yourself due east, and about 50 vertical feet above, the saddle between tower 1 and tower 2 (this is where Ruper tops out). From here proceed (some 4th class) to the chockstone chimney/vertigo rappel route, the best description for which appears in the first comment (by Charles Vernon) in the Yellow Spur beta on this site.

    One caveat re: the chockstone chimney/vertigo rappels: if you are not familiar with them, it can be challenging to find the bolted rappel anchors. Either have done it before or make sure you study the beta carefully, otherwise you may have difficulty finding the anchors.

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