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Redgarden - Lumpe to the top

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Abracadabra TR 
Burning Chrome T 
Cinders And Saints T 
Color of Pomegranates, The T 
Controlled Burn  T 
Culp-Raubach Finish T 
Darkness 'til Dawn T 
Direct Variation to Zot Face T 
Disappearing Act (aka Kryptonite) T 
Doris Gets Her Oats T 
Dream Weaver T 
Everybody Route, The T 
Fanning the Flame T 
For Whom the Bell Tolls T 
Grand Course, The T 
Grandmother's Challenge T 
Great Zot Variation A., The T 
Great Zot, The T 
Green Hornet, The T,S 
Green Slab Direct T 
Green Slab-Original Route T 
Green Sleeves T 
Green Spur, The T 
Heddie La Rue T 
Hot Links T 
Hot Spur, The T 
Lost in Space T 
Maverick T 
Miller- Light Deviation, The T 
Northumberland Crack T 
Paris Girl S 
Piece of the Sun  T 
Please Close Lid T 
Rabbits From Hats T 
Razors to Rubble T 
Rebuffat's Arete T 
Rewritten T 
Roof Wall, The T 
Silver Raven T 
Spur of the Moment T 
Sunstar T 
Swanson Arete T 
Tower Corner Exit T 
Unknown left of Darkness 'til Dawn T 
Waiting Room T 
Warm and Fuzzy T 
West Chimney T 
Zot Face, The T 

Redgarden - Lumpe to the top Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 6,000'
Location: 39.93228, -105.28671 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 77,868
Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Mar 20, 2006

57° | 28°

33° | 18°

25° | 13°

33° | 19°

40° | 27°

49° | 30°
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BETA PHOTO: Redgarden Wall, showing the major features and the...

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  • Description 

    The upper or left section of Redgarden Wall is contained here and includes Lumpe Tower, Middle Tower, and the Hot Spur. It is characterized by generally by somewhat lower-end difficulty routes with more broken rock in sections. Protection and route-finding skills are mandatory here. The routes remain moderate in length but definitely have a pleasant feel of adventure.

    This section of Redgarden Wall includes routes from the top or left-most sections of Redgarden Wall to include Lumpe Tower. To define the irregular Lumpe tower, we exclude terrain on Tower One, which we arbitrarily demarcate by a line connecting the obvious large dihedral separating upper Tower One & Lumpe Tower, aka The Dirty Deed, and connect this to the ground with obvious, West Chimney.

    While this section may not be as packed with history as some of the other sections of Redgarden Wall, there is still interesting tidbits here like Larry Dalke just deciding to free The Green Spur in 1964 on a whim in Climb!. There is also a fun video clip of the talented, Beth Bennett climbing Silver Raven in Front Range Freaks.

    Some of the classics include: the fun Swanson Arete, 5.5; the beautiful Rewritten, 5.7; the zesty The Great Zot to The Zot Face, 5.8+; the fine Green Slab Direct, 5.9; challenging The Green Spur, 5.9; the desert-like Darkness 'til Dawn, 5.9+; the classic Grandmother's Challenge, 5.10c; the tricky Disappearing Act, 5.11a; the beautiful Silver Raven, 5.11d; the necky & controversial Paris Girl, 5.13a.

    One thing to consider here is that some of these lines do not go into the sun until about 11am or 12pm.

    There are few rappel routes in the area. You can descend Lumpe Tower with rappels along the Swanson Arete and right area with a traverse, 3 double rope rappels to the ground. You can also risk the rope-catching Dirty Deed rappel. When in doubt, you can always traverse left at the top of the walls here to a 3rd class-4th class descent beyond the Hot Spur.

    Getting There 

    To access this section of Redgarden Wall, you should park at the east end of Eldorado Canyon SP, hike uphill briefly, cross the bridge. Here, for routes from Ruper to Super Slab/Doub-Griffith you may choose one of 2 approaches depending on your preference. You can hike either around either the L of the The Whale's Tail or you continue upstream, cross the concrete pad, follow the trail, take the right fork and you arrived nearly at the base of T2. For routes on the west side of Tower One in the vicinity of Vertigo and left, you should take the left fork (see above) and continue around the base of the Pickpocket Wall and catch the Redgarden Trail in the gully between Redgarden Wall and the West Ridge. This is labeled as a climber's access trail. Continue up this trail. Go right at the fork for Kloof Alcove area, ascend railroad tie steps, a small ladder, and find your route. The obvious large chimney a short way above the ladder is West Chimney.

    Climbing Season

    Weather station 0.2 miles from here

    48 Total Climbing Routes

    ['4 Stars',6],['3 Stars',10],['2 Stars',20],['1 Star',8],['Bomb',1]

    Classic Climbing Routes in Redgarden - Lumpe to the top

    Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Redgarden - Lumpe to the top:
    Swanson Arete   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 3 pitches   
    Rewritten   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 6 pitches   
    The Zot Face   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 6 pitches, 500'   
    Rebuffat's Arete   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 190'   
    Green Slab-Original Route   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 6 pitches, 600'   
    Direct Variation to Zot Face   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
    Doris Gets Her Oats   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
    Waiting Room   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
    The Great Zot   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 5 pitches   
    Green Slab Direct   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 4 pitches   
    The Green Spur   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches   
    Darkness 'til Dawn   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 140'   
    Grandmother's Challenge   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches   
    Green Sleeves   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13     Trad, 4 pitches, 600'   
    The Grand Course   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 2 pitches   
    Disappearing Act (aka Kryptonite)   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 2 pitches, 140'   
    The Green Hornet   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 190'   
    Rabbits From Hats   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
    Silver Raven   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad   
    Paris Girl   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c R     Sport, 1 pitch   
    Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Redgarden - Lumpe to the top

    Featured Route For Redgarden - Lumpe to the top
    Rock Climbing Photo: Christa Cline on the beautiful fourth pitch crack.

    Rewritten 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  Colorado : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to...
    This is another excellent classic on Redgarden. Six pitches takes you to the summit of the Middle Buttress via Rebuffat's Arete. Start at the base of the West Chimney below the Middle Buttress about 15 feet left of an alcove.P1 is a steep start but only 5.6 up a nice crack (~110 feet). There are two cracks starting here. The thinner crack on the right is The Great Zot (8+) and is one of my favorite 5.8s in Eldo. ake your pick.P2. Climb an easy pitch up to the Red Ledge...[more]   Browse More Classics in Colorado

    Photos of Redgarden - Lumpe to the top Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Somewhere past Lumpe Tower (maybe above Lost In Sp...
    Somewhere past Lumpe Tower (maybe above Lost In Sp...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Another Sunday in Eldorado.  How many ropes can yo...
    Another Sunday in Eldorado. How many ropes can yo...

    Comments on Redgarden - Lumpe to the top Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Leo Paik
    From: Westminster, Colorado
    Aug 7, 2002
    Anyone up there on 8/6/2 Tuesday that know where that huge boulder came from that fell off somewhere up hill from Great Zot? Sunstar? GC? Green Spur? The trail?