Redgarden - Below Lower Ramp Rock Climbing
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Elevation: | 6,034 ft |
GPS: |
39.9309, -105.28548 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
Page Views: | 67,870 total · 310/month |
Shared By: | Leo Paik on Mar 20, 2006 · Updates |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Rockfall Access Effect & Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Per Dustin Bergman, Eldorado Canyon State Park Officer: the upper third of the West Redgarden trail and Rewritten descent trail suffered significant damage during that storm that came through a few weeks ago. Please consider choosing alternates routes lower on the trail.
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyonÂ’s falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyonÂ’s falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
This section of Redgarden Wall is easily defined since it encompasses the rock below the Lower Ramp. This Lower Ramp is the Flatiron-like ramp at the upper end of the Roof Routes. Rock in this section is decent to good in spots, but certainly is fractured & loose in others. Helmets may be advisable for days playing here. On the positive side, this area is rarely, if ever, crowded.
Probably the most notable press this section of the cliff has received was when it was highlighted with Eric Johnson seeking to tick the obscure, Rough Roof, 5.12b s/vs in Peter Mortimer's excellent Front Range Freaks.
Certainly, this section may be lean on the classics. In fact, if you read through the list here for Redgarden Wall, none of these made that list. One was close. For the visiting climber with limited time, this area may be skipped. Nonetheless, for the discerning palate, there are still some delicacies here.
Some of the better routes in the section may include: Vertical Smile, 5.7; Pickpocket, 5.8 vs or TR; The Slimy Spoon, 5.8 PG-13; Mr. Natural, 5.8+; Unknown, 5.10c+; Breakfast of Champions, 5.11a s; the near-list-making Suparete, 5.11a/b; Toys for Tots, 5.11a/b; Rough Roof, 5.12b s/vs; Captain Crunch, 5.13a.
Note, Roving for Love, 5.11c s, was included here, since in the description it begins here with Suparete.
Descents here may involve rappels or downclimbing the top of the Lower Ramp or other ramps.
So, for the seeker of the obscure or the road less-traveled, close to the road in Eldorado Canyon, perhaps a wander in this area is worth your energy.
Probably the most notable press this section of the cliff has received was when it was highlighted with Eric Johnson seeking to tick the obscure, Rough Roof, 5.12b s/vs in Peter Mortimer's excellent Front Range Freaks.
Certainly, this section may be lean on the classics. In fact, if you read through the list here for Redgarden Wall, none of these made that list. One was close. For the visiting climber with limited time, this area may be skipped. Nonetheless, for the discerning palate, there are still some delicacies here.
Some of the better routes in the section may include: Vertical Smile, 5.7; Pickpocket, 5.8 vs or TR; The Slimy Spoon, 5.8 PG-13; Mr. Natural, 5.8+; Unknown, 5.10c+; Breakfast of Champions, 5.11a s; the near-list-making Suparete, 5.11a/b; Toys for Tots, 5.11a/b; Rough Roof, 5.12b s/vs; Captain Crunch, 5.13a.
Note, Roving for Love, 5.11c s, was included here, since in the description it begins here with Suparete.
Descents here may involve rappels or downclimbing the top of the Lower Ramp or other ramps.
So, for the seeker of the obscure or the road less-traveled, close to the road in Eldorado Canyon, perhaps a wander in this area is worth your energy.
Getting There
To approach this section of the Redgarden Wall, park at the E end of the park. Hike to the bridge, cross the bridge, hike W along the base of Whale's Tail. Continue across the concrete pad, follow the trail. At the fork, go L. The first rock you reach here will be the Pickpocket Wall. To reach most of the routes here, you can take the 3rd class Redgarden Trail which follows around the the western-facing sections of the Redgarden Wall. Some routes like Vertical Smile may trickier to locate and involve the approach to the Roof Routes and bushwhacking around the left side of the Lower Ramp.
Classic Climbing Routes at Redgarden - Below Lower Ramp
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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