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Dead Mans Spires
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Hermit's Hovel - Mystery Incident T 
Redemption Tower T 
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Redemption Tower 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b C1 R

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 2 pitches, 240'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b C1 R [details]
FA: Paul Stoner & Doug McKee
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 64
Submitted By: Paul S on Oct 11, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Redemption Tower

Description 

Just left of the center of the north face, take the obvious wide crack that goes nearly to the summit.

P1: Starts on soft rock and slowly becomes steeper and wider until you can fit in the crack. The last 70' or so is physical chimney/squeeze climbing that's without gear unless you have a gold big bro. Gear anchor past the junk ledge in a good hand crack. 200'

P2: Short boulder problem leads to easier climbing to the summit. Short pitch.

Descent is to the climbers right of the line climbed. First rappel is 40' to a ledge. Next is close to 200' to the ground.

Location 

Redemption Tower is just right of Tibia tower, or the right most tower of the large group as viewed from the camping area.

Protection 

Doubles from .2-#6 camalots. 1 or 2 #4 big bros, #5 big bro, and 9" valley giant.


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