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Red Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Short Cool Red One 
Center Left 
East Overhang Left 
East Overhang Right 
Eric Varney Direct 
Gorilla Traverse 
Griffith Direct 
Just Another Traverse 
Moffat Direct 
Red Wall Direct 
Red Wall Traverse 
Right Rght Side 
Right Side 
Standard Route 
Unsorted Routes:

Red Wall Rock Climbing 

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Location: 40.00275, -105.29689 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 9,790
Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Patrick Vernon on Jan 1, 2001
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BETA PHOTO: The Red Wall Boulder's backside.

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Across the road and [uphill] from the parking lot for the [Monkey Traverse] area. Follow a trail northeast to a large boulder with many pebbles, [Red Wall] is up and northeast past two smaller bolcks. It is a dead vertical wall with pockets, undercut, a tree on the right and 12 feet tall.

Climbing Season

Weather station 1.9 miles from here

14 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Red Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Red Wall:
Standard Route   V3-4 6A+     Boulder, 10'   
Center Left   V4 6B     Boulder   
Right Side   V4 6B     Boulder   
Eric Varney Direct   V5 6C     Boulder   
Moffat Direct   V8 7B     Boulder, 12'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Red Wall

Featured Route For Red Wall
Rock Climbing Photo: Misha Z. sticking the first move.

Eric Varney Direct V5 6C  Colorado : Boulder : ... : Red Wall
This is a great problem! Vertical pocket pulling!Start with your right hand in an infamous, sloping dish and left in the heel hook jug for the Center Left route. Cross over with the left to a small, not too good, three finger edge. Your right hand goes directly above it to a shallow, two finger pocket, left hand out to a good edge, then up. Tweaky....[more]   Browse More Classics in Colorado

Photos of Red Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: View of Red Wall at Flagstaff
BETA PHOTO: View of Red Wall at Flagstaff

Comments on Red Wall Add Comment
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By Michael Sprague
Sep 16, 2004
Does anyone know the history of the line on the left-most side of Red Wall? It's the sit-start one that starts with left hand in the deep pocket and right-hand on the crimp (you can see these in the above photo).Alternatively, you can add a traverse start from the crimps below the heel-hook jug of Center Left.I think this is a great line but have seen very few people do it.
By Chip Phillips
From: Broomfield, CO
Sep 16, 2004
what I can tell you Michael is that there are a couple of vertical sit-down-start problems on the left side of Red Wall.

the furthest left starts with your right hand in the shallow pocket and left hand on an edge, pimp straight up on pebbles, crimps and a shallow divot or two. I refer to this as Left Side V4. FWIW, I remember Benningfield mentioning a V4 on the left side of Red Wall (although I'm not sure he called it Left Side) and Pat Ament also mentions a line he did over there in 1967 in one or more of his guides, but I doubt he did a sds in 1967.

the other problem (AND THE ONE YOU ARE APPARENTLY REFERRING TO) begins from a sds with your left hand in the pocket, right hand on an obvious crimp. start feet low then probably heel hook up and right on the high-but-really-good edge (this is THE KEY for me). move both hands up from that position a couple of times and you've got it. I've been told this is a CG problem, although I've yet to get more specifics from CG on it. I believe its about V5/6 (assuming Varney Direct is V6 not V5).

oh, the obscurity of Flagstaff Mountain. enjoy. flame on.

By Ted Lanzano
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 23, 2004
Another way to use the pocket that Michael refers to (on the lower left side of the Red Wall) is via the Red Wall Traverse (I think that's the name). This starts towards the right side of the wall and works left on the lower jugs to a stab to the left pocket (crux). Top out from there. Probably around V7.
By Chip Phillips
From: Broomfield, CO
Sep 23, 2004
There is also an unreal left to right traverse beginning on the far left and traversing right all the way into ... Right Side. Getting into Right Side via the traverse is VERY difficult. Peter Beal indicated to me this traverse was in the neighborhood V9/10, but I suspect it might be even harder (no offense Peter), as Right Side is very hard to get into from any holds other than the starting holds.

For a more reasonable? challenge, traverse right into Moffet Direct (the direct start for Varney Direct). This IS more like V9 or 10. Whatever, have fun with these variations to the obvious lines.

peace out
By llamaface
From: Northglenn, CO
Jan 2, 2009
Does anyone know the name/grade of the two move wonder problem on the east side of this block? It's a lonely problem on the back of the boulder....
By Chip Phillips
From: Broomfield, CO
Jan 4, 2009
For all you ever wanted to know about Red Wall and more, go to:

The Red Wall is at/near the bottom.
By misha zavalov
From: Boulder, Co.
Dec 29, 2009
Yo, Llamaface, backside of Redwall prob is called Sleeper -V7-.
By jmapping
From: Carbondale, co
Sep 19, 2010
Redwall routes.

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