Red Wall Traverse
|Original: || Hueco: V8 Font: 7B [details]|
|FA: ||Peter Beal ca. 2000|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||985|
|Submitted By: ||Peter Beal on Oct 3, 2007|
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Start on the left side of Red Wall at an obvious pocket and move right along the rail system to the pod and flake below. Reach right to a thin sidepull and very thin edges below the start of Red Wall Right Hand. Use these to set up for the start of that problem and finish up it. Sequences may vary for individuals, but all the holds are pretty bad no matter which you use.
Apparently repeated and graded at V8 by Ted Lanzano. I think it's harder but have adjusted the grade.
By Ted Lanzano
From: Boulder, CO
Dec 3, 2007
Peter, I think we used different sequences on this. From the LH crimp in the pod (at the end of the rail system), I went up right to the crimp, left hand above to the pocket (1" above), and then finished Right Side of the red wall. I saw the video on your blog (which is of the ending problem of the traverse), and it looks you had a different (and rather hard) way to get into the right side of hte red wall. Maybe your method is the more proper traverse beta, not sure. Regardless, a great traverse. V8 was probably too low.
By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Dec 6, 2007
Thanks for the input Ted. My method seemed the best way at the time but I often conjure up the least efficient way to actually climb the section of rock. Those who want to see the video Ted mentions can go to mountainsandwater.blogspot.com....