REI Community
Medicine Bow Peak Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Amnesia T 
Gooseneck Couloir T 
Marie Couloir 
Overhang Direct T 
Red Spot T 
Red Spot Alternate Start  T 
Sidewinder T 
Unsorted Routes:

Red Spot 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a R

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 1000', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a R [details]
FA: Frisby/Jaquot/Mathiesen '65
Season: Summer
Page Views: 3,003
Submitted By: Petsfed on Mar 7, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]
BETA PHOTO: The red line indicates our path on Leftover Direct...


Start at the base of a prominent pillar (not the huge pillar that's visible from the road, but farther left of that) at the base of the The Diamond about 200 feet right of the south edge of the face. Climb the pillar and onto the face, eventually encountering an alcove. Either belay here (it's another 200 feet to the next belay) or continue on to a loose ledge. The next pitch climbs a thinly protected face to another loose ledge for a belay. Continue up, linking the path of least resistance to the distinctive diagonal ledge that cuts up and left across the entire face. From here, either follow the ledge up and left off of the face or continue up to Left Over (5.9+).

For both, continue up another 50 feet until you encounter a cave. Pass the cave and continue basically straight up until you encounter a half-inch steel cable. Belay here. From this belay, traverse into a large, slightly overhanging dihedral and climb it. This is poorly protected right off the belay, but small cams and long slings shouldn't leave you too bad off. Top out on easy (4th class) slabs. Find the Medicine Bow Peak trail and walk off to the south.

The entire climb has route-finding issues, so be ready to down climb. Also, most of the cracks are very tiny (knife-blades would probably work best) so most of the climbing is very run out. Fortunately, there is protection at the hard parts, even on the harder variation.


The Diamond Buttress dominates the Snowies skyline, and is most easily reached from the Lake Marie picnic area.


Singles from yellow Alien to #2.5 Friend. Nuts. Lots of long slings.

Photos of Red Spot Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down at Lake Maria from the top of the sec...
Looking down at Lake Maria from the top of the sec...

Comments on Red Spot Add Comment
Show which comments
By Sylvia
Mar 8, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

The cliff overlooks the Laramie Valley and has a great view of the lake below. The cliff itself is quartzite with sharp edges that make great hand and foot holds. Only open for a short window in the summer between snow. Avoid when wet or possible rain. An early start is recommended because the weather closes in around 2 or 3 in the afternoon. It can get cold up there so be prepared.
By Daniel Marshall
Sep 21, 2015
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Climbed this route on 7/15/15. P1 was a little chossy but not bad, P2 was beautiful and finished above and to the left of the red spot complete with a piton. P3 gave some nice exposure and went up to the diagonal ledge. Due to some weather working its way in we took P4 and P5 out on the ledge and escaped just in time. Over all I would say its not a bad route, a little "alpine light". 5.5 sounds about right. P3 is the most difficult.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About