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Medicine Bow Peak Area
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Amnesia T 
Gooseneck Couloir T 
Marie Couloir 
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Red Spot Alternate Start  T 
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Red Spot Alternate Start  

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c PG13

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c PG13 [details]
FA: Unknown
Season: June-September
Page Views: 101
Submitted By: Paul Pellissier on Jun 4, 2016

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This alternate start to any of the climbs in the Red Spot area ascends two parallel cracks that bisect a small buttress approximately 70 feet to the right (down slope) of the start of Red Spot. Down low there are plenty of positive face holds to complement the finger to hand sized cracks. As you get higher the cracks generally narrow eventually leading to a thoughtful section with little in the way of crack features (crux ~30 ft). Progress using tenuous crack and face holds to gain a pleasant finger crack above.

Belay on the second of two large but loose ledges (small nuts and purple C3 helpful). From here traverse left to rejoin Red Spot or continue up choosing you own adventure.


Single rack of nuts and cams to 2 inches. Doubles in BD 0.3 range could be helpful.

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