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Red Slab
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Red Slab 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Chris Summit, 1999
Page Views: 588
Submitted By: Brian Quiter on Nov 17, 2002

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Ivan moving past second bolt. One move and it's ov...

Description 

Red Wall Face is the left-most climb on the wall. It ascends an easy right-facing slab before the first bolt, then there are two bolts protecting the crux, on the wall facing the ocean. After the crux move, the climbing gets very easy and passes a third bolt as it becomes more run out.

Protection 

3 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. The anchor is on a ledge, and a 5 foot sling would help a lot if you were interested in top roping. Also, you can hike around to the right to the top of the route if you want to just set up a top rope.


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By Paul Rezucha
From: Alameda
Apr 20, 2003

Had the place to ourselves yesterday (4/19), sunny but very windy. Clipping the first bolt was a stretch with the wind trying to blow me off. I moved up from first bolt to large sloping holds and had a tough, long reach to clip second bolt. If foot slipped here, it would have been a pretty long fall. The moves are great getting to this point and a few feet further. Easier climbing to the top. I decided to try it again to see how a TR would feel. Don't know if this was cheating but I found a good left facing slanting hold directly above starting position prior to clipping first bolt. This added height made clipping first bolt easy. Made a very easy move to the large slanted holds, and clipping 2nd bolt was right at face. This seems to make the route 5.9 or so. Much, much easier than the first way I did it. Just goes to show you, if you look around you may find a much easier way to do the crux! A fun, safe route!
By splitclimber
Sep 24, 2010

route is listed as 5.9 in norcal roadtrip.

can climb several other TR routes off to the left from these anchors
maybe 5.7.-5.9.
By Ed Henicle
From: Santa Rosa, CA
Oct 9, 2016

Great balancy moves. Rated 10a in three guide books: Wine Country Rocks, Bay Area Rock, and Tresa Black's Falcon guide. I always feel like I'm going to peel clipping that 2nd bolt.

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