CLOSED TO CLIMBING Red Shank
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 1.7 from 3 votes
Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
FA: | Chris Barnes and Mike Engle, 2013 |
Page Views: | 606 total · 6/month |
Shared By: | Mike Engle on Dec 17, 2015 · Updates |
Admins: | Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
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Access Issue: CLOSED to Climbing
Details
All climbs in the Owl Cove Area sub-area are closed to climbing.
Access Issue: 1) As of August 17, 2023, all forms of rock climbing on the BLM managed portion of Massacre Rocks is CLOSED. Rock climbing on Idaho State Land at Massacre remains OPEN. 2) Do not trespass on private 'short cut' farming roads into Massacre.
Details
1) The Bureau of Land Management released the Cedar Fields Record of Decision (ROD) for rock climbing on BLM and BOR lands (the BLM 'managed' lands at Massacre Rocks). The closure include (but not limited to) popular crags/wall like Le Petite Covette, French Wall, Hobbit Wall, the Owl Cove, Main Wall, Wild Onion, Boulder Wall, Play Pen, Farmyard, Forbidden Planet, Far Side, Royalty Point, Windmill Wall, the Outback, Down Under, Camptown Towers, Westworld, and Mighty Mite Wall. All closed crags/walls that are in the MP database are designated CLOSED.
IMPORTANT: All the crags on Idaho State land remain OPEN including popular crags/walls like All American, Rural Wall, Thelma and Louise Wall, South of the Border, Eagle Wall, Echo Point, Funny Business, Disney Walls, Lighting Bolt Wall, Red Light District, Love Connection, Choss Factory, Dance Wall, Gang Fight, Game Show, King Wall, Dragon's Den, Summer Wall, Wall of Zen, and the Morgue.
2) The land owners are monitoring their farm roads and are asking climbers not to trespass and if they catch you, they will ask you to turn around. There is concern about liability, near misses at high speeds on the farm roads, and disruption of hunting on the cedar mound on their property. When using the BLM access route, there is a short section of private land between two metal gates that is also being monitored by the land owner for trespassing. Fortunately, there is an option to avoid this stretch. Adjacent to the private metal gate, there is a new public metal gate separating BLM land from Idaho State public land. Go through the right hand gate (close it behind you) and follow a newly cut road until you can join the regular 2 track road.
IMPORTANT: All the crags on Idaho State land remain OPEN including popular crags/walls like All American, Rural Wall, Thelma and Louise Wall, South of the Border, Eagle Wall, Echo Point, Funny Business, Disney Walls, Lighting Bolt Wall, Red Light District, Love Connection, Choss Factory, Dance Wall, Gang Fight, Game Show, King Wall, Dragon's Den, Summer Wall, Wall of Zen, and the Morgue.
2) The land owners are monitoring their farm roads and are asking climbers not to trespass and if they catch you, they will ask you to turn around. There is concern about liability, near misses at high speeds on the farm roads, and disruption of hunting on the cedar mound on their property. When using the BLM access route, there is a short section of private land between two metal gates that is also being monitored by the land owner for trespassing. Fortunately, there is an option to avoid this stretch. Adjacent to the private metal gate, there is a new public metal gate separating BLM land from Idaho State public land. Go through the right hand gate (close it behind you) and follow a newly cut road until you can join the regular 2 track road.
Description
Follow the line of bolts just right of the large bush about 1/3 the way up the route.
This is the easiest approach pitch to Jail House Wall. Pull onto the large ledge and walk/scramble 50 feet left to the base of the routes on Jail House Wall.
This is the easiest approach pitch to Jail House Wall. Pull onto the large ledge and walk/scramble 50 feet left to the base of the routes on Jail House Wall.
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