|Type:||Trad, 2 pitches, 260', Grade III|
|Original:||YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a PG13 [details]|
|FA:||Samy Jr., Matty P, Willy P, Beny K, spring 2011|
|Submitted By:||Bill Grasse on May 30, 2011|
|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Red Rocket Tower- Afternoon Delight||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Sam Lightner, Jr.
From: Lander, WY
Jun 2, 2011
|Nicely done Billiam.|
By Steve "Crusher" Bartlett
Nov 13, 2014
Climbed this Nov 2014. Notes:
1. For aiding, the rack is huge! Many, many cams from fingers (about first 30 feet or so) to ring-lock size to tight hands to hands to rattly hands and eventually fists, 180 feet up.
2. This may go free. There are a couple spots with hands-off rests that could be used to break up this monster pitch into 2 or 3 shorter pitches (or to stop and haul up more gear).
3. The rock is basically sound and yet threw a bunch of loose flakes/holds off. In particular entering the wide pod/slot feature 2/3 of the way up, the entire right side had recently exfoliated into a delicate detached flake, 6 feet tall, just sorta teetering there. Broke the thinner top half into manageable pieces for hucking out from the cliff. Rest is fatter, sort of attached and we left it be. It would be easy to pry off. Belayer is about 100 feet below.
4. Nice find you guys! Quite the splitter!
By Joe Stern
From: Moab, Utah
Oct 6, 2016
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a C1
A plaque at the base indicates that this has been freed at 12-. I did a hangdog free lead and my partner Nate freed it clean on TR, confirming the grade.
Rack: 4-5 sets of cams from .5-3, with 1-2 orange metolius and 1-2 old 3.5 cams.
Awesome splitter...for choss.
By Nate Sydnor
Oct 15, 2016
|The anchor noted by the first ascensionist was placed by Jay Smith I believe. He mentioned this route a few weeks back as one that he found, but never climbed, making note that the splitter was unmistakable. I would be psyched to know who did the FFA. He sent us out there to free it, but we were beaten to the punch! Although not in the best quality rock, the crack is remarkable; a single continuous line to the top. Challenging, Indian Creek-style climbing in the beginning gives way to an epic journey up thin hands and hands, with one more challenging boulder problem in the middle. Joe's gear beta will be spot on for most. Classic desert tower experience!|