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Red Rocket Tower- Afternoon Delight 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a PG13

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 260', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a PG13 [details]
FA: Samy Jr., Matty P, Willy P, Beny K, spring 2011
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 257
Submitted By: Bill Grasse on May 30, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Me, pitch 2 of Red Rocket Tower. Photo taken by St...

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>


Pitch 1:
There appears to be many different options on pitch one, but the ultimate goal is to get on the big ledge about 50-60 feet up. All options seemed pretty loose. We climbed a line a little to the left, the second half of which was walking up a sandy ramp in a chimney. Two bolt belay. 5.7 70'.

(Note: The anchor on top of pitch 1 was there before us. There was no anchor on top of the tower.)

Pitch 2:
Climb the obvious splitter (C1 or 5.12-). After the crux in the first 30' the difficulty eases but the quality of rock diminishes. Continue to the top. 190'.

Rappel the route.


This tower sits to the Northwest of the junction of Hwys 313 and 191. At the corner of the obvious cliff band sits the tower, with a splitter running up its Southeast face. This tower only reveals its self if you drive north of the junction on 191 and look back.


The second pitch is long. Desert standard rack, extras in .4-3 camalots. Two 60 meter ropes.

Photos of Red Rocket Tower- Afternoon Delight Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The splitter.
BETA PHOTO: The splitter.

Comments on Red Rocket Tower- Afternoon Delight Add Comment
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By Sam Lightner, Jr.
From: Lander, WY
Jun 2, 2011

Nicely done Billiam.
By Steve "Crusher" Bartlett
Nov 13, 2014

Climbed this Nov 2014. Notes:
1. For aiding, the rack is huge! Many, many cams from fingers (about first 30 feet or so) to ring-lock size to tight hands to hands to rattly hands and eventually fists, 180 feet up.

2. This may go free. There are a couple spots with hands-off rests that could be used to break up this monster pitch into 2 or 3 shorter pitches (or to stop and haul up more gear).

3. The rock is basically sound and yet threw a bunch of loose flakes/holds off. In particular entering the wide pod/slot feature 2/3 of the way up, the entire right side had recently exfoliated into a delicate detached flake, 6 feet tall, just sorta teetering there. Broke the thinner top half into manageable pieces for hucking out from the cliff. Rest is fatter, sort of attached and we left it be. It would be easy to pry off. Belayer is about 100 feet below.

4. Nice find you guys! Quite the splitter!
By Joe Stern
From: Moab, Utah
Oct 6, 2016
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a C1

A plaque at the base indicates that this has been freed at 12-. I did a hangdog free lead and my partner Nate freed it clean on TR, confirming the grade.

Rack: 4-5 sets of cams from .5-3, with 1-2 orange metolius and 1-2 old 3.5 cams.

Awesome splitter...for choss.
By Nate Sydnor
From: Moab
Oct 15, 2016

The anchor noted by the first ascensionist was placed by Jay Smith I believe. He mentioned this route a few weeks back as one that he found, but never climbed, making note that the splitter was unmistakable. I would be psyched to know who did the FFA. He sent us out there to free it, but we were beaten to the punch! Although not in the best quality rock, the crack is remarkable; a single continuous line to the top. Challenging, Indian Creek-style climbing in the beginning gives way to an epic journey up thin hands and hands, with one more challenging boulder problem in the middle. Joe's gear beta will be spot on for most. Classic desert tower experience!

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