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Red Queen 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Marius vanderMerwe & Marc Hansen
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 727
Submitted By: Marius vanderMerwe on Aug 2, 2011

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BETA PHOTO: The beautiful red arete that tops Red Queen (5.11c...


Starts on blocky but vertical 5.10sh terrain that leads to a prominent ramp about halfway up the route. Rest up and head out for the obvious sharp red arete. The arete is the 5.11 section of the climb so keep on moving and avoid the pump!

Note: It is possible to avoid the crux move at the bottom of the red arete by going left into the chimney/open book for a move or two before traversing out right to the arete. This variant drops the grade to perhaps an 11a.


To the immediate right of a prominent roof (with a bolted project running through it).


Around 10 bolts to the 2 bolt anchors.

Photos of Red Queen Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Red Queen (5.11c). At this angle the bottom half o...
BETA PHOTO: Red Queen (5.11c). At this angle the bottom half o...

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By skeers
Jan 11, 2012
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Hats off to you Marius, what an amazing line. I finally had the chance to get on this route, and it was AWESOME. Great movement combined with arete climbing. This is classic no doubt.
By Marius vanderMerwe
From: Saint George, UT
Jan 12, 2012

Glad you liked it. Thanks for introducing me to the area. It is going to be my favorite climbing spot in the summer.

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