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Red Orkan 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 105'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,195
Submitted By: Alex Garhart on Aug 8, 2014  with updates from Aaron Glasenapp

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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BETA PHOTO: The route.

Description 

This is a great route that climbs a water groove up a pillar. The crux is entering and then exiting a body length, egg-shaped pod at half height.

Location 

This is the right-most route on the wall.

Protection 

9 QDs, C3s, and a #0.75 Camalot.


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By Aaron Glasenapp
From: Denver, CO
May 30, 2017
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

This is an interesting route for a few reasons. Just below the biggest of the pods, the lack of features forced me to the right into the crack/seam for about 30 feet, and only stepping and reaching far left to clip the bolts. I felt like I was off route, and from what I could tell, climbing the bolt line directly would have been much harder than 5.10. I also did not bring any gear, as the route is listed as sport. Clipping the highest bolt visible from the ground (maybe the 8th bolt?), was a spicy PG-13 clip with 20+ foot fall potential with some bulges to hit on the way if you're not careful.

All that said, it was enjoyable climbing. Bring some small gear I guess for the crack.

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