REI Community
Lucy
Select Route:
Red Lung T 

Red Lung 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 250'
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Jeff Snyder, Zach Harrison
New Route: Yes
Season: Winter only. Full moon.
Page Views: 1,047
Submitted By: Zach Harrison on Jan 21, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
P2 Stunner upper face

Description 

Red Lung is a modern style ‘adventure’ sport route named after the effects of the time honored tradition of huffing sand. This mostly bolted line features amazing features to the cool micro summit of Lucy. Vertical cragging at its finest, wonderful setting.

Pitch 1 Angle up and right via easy runout terrain to rightward ramp and a bolt. Romp to rap station past ghetto Vegas rock. 5.7R 100 feet.

Pitch 2 Move belay right 30 feet. Belay takes micro nuts, mini cam or spirit belay. Boulder crack moves to baggy stance. Drift fun face moves past bolts up awesome holds to the odd seam feature and a classic belay flop. 5.11 80 feet.

Pitch 3 Bush waltz to higher ledge. Burl out cartoon holds past 4 bolts on the 'World Cup Arete', fist pump optional. Alpine piller ramble to Mace wannabe lean across. Munch high quality popcorn to the top. Awesome summit! 5.11+ 70 feet.

Location 

Start at the notch between Slingshot Rock and the Camels Head. Rap route. Angle back to notch on last rappel, watch your ends, 100 feet!

Protection 

Rack 1X BD#1C3-#1C4 . 9 draws and runners. 70m rope is best for the last rap.


Photos of Red Lung Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Ben gets to climb on top of Lucy
Ben gets to climb on top of Lucy
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 2 follows the dog leg anti splitter. P3 blas...
Pitch 2 follows the dog leg anti splitter. P3 blas...
Rock Climbing Photo: Cartoon plastic crux of the World Cup Arete, P3.
Cartoon plastic crux of the World Cup Arete, P3.
Rock Climbing Photo: Jeff Snyder on the quality anti-splitter of P2.
Jeff Snyder on the quality anti-splitter of P2.
Rock Climbing Photo: View from the approach. Crack on face to cartoon s...
View from the approach. Crack on face to cartoon s...

Comments on Red Lung Add Comment
Show which comments
By Zach Harrison
Dec 5, 2016

This pitch does go on gear, but its pretty funky. Crux is definitely placing all the wacky gear. After pulling a piece on the FA I hit a ledge, and subsequently started placing some bolts on lead. After cleaning all the loose shit off and TR many times, I decided to see what it was like without any bolts, A fall from low on the pitch has guaranteed ledge encounter... While a strong climber could onsight this, lets just not even enter a discussion on chopping. However you do it, its fun climbing!
By J. Snyder
From: Flagstaff, Arizona
Dec 16, 2016
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

Chop this shit!!! Don't forget the anchors too.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About