REI Community
The Cemetery
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Gulley Route- Far Right S 
Hell Sloper (Open Project), The S 
Red Lizard S 
Unsorted Routes:

Red Lizard 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 130'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Dave Pastor
Page Views: 1,109
Submitted By: Josh Janes on May 29, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Rad route with a lotta bolts

Description 

Follow the line of bolts up the center of the buttress past numerous weird cruxes. There are often good rests. An intermediate anchor at 90' is a sensible place to stop, but you can continue on at 5.9+ through an exposed headwall. This will require two ropes or two lowers, unless you lower from a single bolt & quicklink at a point where things get low angle. From here, with backcleaning, you can lower off with a 70m rope, but it's probably a bad idea to use just one bolt as your anchor. Honestly, the "real" climbing ends at the first anchor, but the next stretch is pretty fun and makes for a long pitch.

Protection 

At least 18 draws if you go all the way. A dozen or so to the first anchor.


Comments on Red Lizard Add Comment
Show which comments
By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Nov 12, 2012

Great climbing and lots of midday sun. Too bad there aren't more like this around.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About