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Red Limit 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Richard Rossiter and Jessica True, 2002, FFA: Chris Weidner, 2006? Travis Blair, 2012
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,203
Submitted By: Richard Rossiter on Jul 1, 2002  with updates from Andy Hansen

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BETA PHOTO: Red Limit climbs the easy corner to the seam and u...

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Begin 30 feet right from Tales of Power at a left-facing corner. Climb easily past three bolts, then make very difficult moves into a shallow dihedral. Tips lieback up the dihedral (12a), gain an undercling and master a second crux (12c A0, 8 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor, 70 feet). This has steep, strenuous, thin, excellent rock all the way. Who will redpoint this beauty? I could not pull it off, but I'm just an old guy.


10 quickdraws.

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By Lon Black
Jun 29, 2003

My friend and her partner tried leading this one today thinking it was a 5.9. I ended up getting to the anchors by leading Tales of Power. Since we had a toprope setup, we figured "What the hell. Let's try it."What a tough but wonderful climb. Balance is needed in spots and strength in others. The tips liebacking and thin face sequences rocked. They could have only been better if the climb had been attempted more often, because a number of thin edges crumbled away as we tried to find footholds. Regardless, it was a fun one. I didn't climb it cleanly, but whoever does deserves a nice cold beer, and I'd be happy to buy.
By Chris Weidner
Jul 9, 2006

Red Limit is an excellent route, blending powerful moves into a delicate topout. I free climbed it on 7/6/06 at 12d. Mine is likely the first free ascent, though I can't be sure. A bit of brushing was required to reveal the micro edges that would stay put, but it is now quite clean and highly recommended. Great effort to Richard and Jessica for finding and bolting the line.
By Stephen Nance
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 21, 2012
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b C0

This climb demands respect. Red Limit will reward technique and tension more so than finger strength. The lieback is the "easy part", though I found it scary to power lieback left on lead with the bolts to your right. Once you get to the mini-roof, it's all about bad feet and tension. Good beta will get you through the moves at around .12d. Be carefully up top above the crux as .11+ slab climbing awaits you. Excellent route.
By Travis Blair
Sep 21, 2012

Just sent today! Now where's my beer...?
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Jul 12, 2014
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

This is a great route, and I'll agree with the comment about tension and technique being of more value than pure finger strength. However, it doesn't hurt to have some good old fashion burl when it comes to bearing down on those crimps. The crux holds are good, the feet okay with some straightforward, hard rock climbing. This felt much more doable and not annoying like the newer 12b on Oceanic Wall.
By Alex Shainman
Oct 18, 2015

Really cool moves, but too bad that dihedral doesn't go all the way to the ground!

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