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West Ridge - part E - top to Xanadu
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A Cut Above T,TR 
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Chock Suey T 
Chockstone T 
Cornerstone TR 
Fade To Black T 
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Friends in High Places T 
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Joke Crack to Superstone T 
Knight's Move T 
Laughing at the Moon T 
Ministry of Fear T,TR 
Modern Defense T 
Muscular Dystrophy T 
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Purple Haze T 
Red House T 
S&M T 
Sirens of Titan T 
Speakeasy T 
Superstone T 
Sylvia's Bush T 
Tales of Ulysses T 
Tilt Right T 
Whiplash T 

Red House 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c R [details]
FA: Andy Donson and Steve Levin
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 155
Submitted By: Andy Donson on Jan 12, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Joseph Crotty setting up for the crux moves.

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  • Description 

    This is the obvious, hanging dihedral between Superstone and Friends in High Places. It has great position and quality rock. Climb the easy lower section of Friends in High Places to the break and traverse left beneath roof to a ledge by a tree. Swing up and right into the right-facing dihedral on the right. Climb this past an excellent undercling and good but small gear to reach a belay at another tree.

    To descend, climb down to the belay at the top of Friends.

    Protection 

    Blue and green Alien, small wires, RPs.


    Photos of Red House Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Scott pulling into the corner on "Red House&q...
    Scott pulling into the corner on "Red House&q...

    Comments on Red House Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By slevin
    Jan 15, 2003

    A classic Hendrix tune (like its neighbor Purple Haze), the name reflects the cluelessness of the new owners of the residence west of the Visitor Center, who tastefully painted their house fire-engine red.
    By Peter Spindloe
    From: North Vancouver, BC
    Feb 9, 2003

    And here I was thinking that that color could only be described as "Electric Watermelon."
    By Scott Bennett
    Mar 18, 2009
    rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

    Really good route, another fine short pitch in a great cragging area. We felt like we were on an FA on this one, due to the plentiful lichen and loose crumblies. It's a lot cleaner now, though, and deserves to see a lot more traffic.

    We did not think that it deserves an "R" rating, though, the pro is actually quite solid. The only potentially sketchy spot would be at the start, pulling into the corner from the ledge. Both my partner and I are fairly tall, and we were able to stretch up and place a bomber tcu in a nice solid little slot in the dihedral. A shorter climber might need to pull the first move (~10ish) before getting that peice. It still wouldn't be bad, though, since there are a few other pieces lower, but they might be in slightly sketchy rock.

    Either way, this is not a dangerous route and has some pretty fun climbing on it.

    -Scott
    By Dougald MacDonald
    Nov 17, 2016

    Time to rename the route?

    Rock Climbing Photo: The no-longer Red House.
    The no-longer Red House.

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