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Red Hot Chili Peppers 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Mark Rolofson, Vaino Kodas, and Kirk Miller, 6/14/03. With direct start: John Flunker, 6/27/03
Page Views: 948
Submitted By: Jack Sparrow on Oct 1, 2013

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Climb a face with a crux sequence right off the ground, make a deadpoint to a sloper, hike your feet up, and get a quick shake. A few moderate moves leads to a tricky clip and another 12 b/c crux. This crux is very different than the lower one. I've heard some people start on the boulder next to the climb skipping the first crux. This route is really short anyways, so why skip the starting moves? They add whole another crux and make the route better. If you step from the boulder, it's 12b/c. If you climb directly, it is 12c.


This is to the left of Green Chile.


5 or 6 bolts.

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By Jay Samuelson
From: Denver CO
Sep 28, 2014

This is a pretty cool route that packs a punch in 25 feet. If you skip the bottom crux (climbing off the ground), then I highly doubt the upper crux warrants 5.12 on its own, maybe 12a at best, but that might be generous. Worth doing, and if it's a hot sunny day, this one is in the shade, but if you can climb on the south face, definitely don't do this route first. There are much higher quality routes on the other side.
By Mark Rolofson
Oct 15, 2014
rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

Yes, the direct start adds to the difficulty, but it's very avoidable. Here's the first ascent date for the climb:
First ascent: Mark Rolofson, Vaino Kodas, and Kirk Miller on June 14, 2003.
F.A. with direct start: John Flunker on June 27, 2003. Regardless of how you start it, the redpoint crux is still the finish. You can get a great rest below the 3rd bolt. Climbing past the 5th & last bolt involves a technical, insecure sequence that really makes the route! I've climbed it many times but rarely on the first try of the day. I've always felt it earns it 5.12b/c rating. This finish is easier if you climb it right of the last bolt a few feet. I have always clipped the last bolt with my right hand in a horizontal slot. Reached my left hand into a tight two fingertip pocket in the upper horizontal break. Use a thumb undercling on the break with the right hand as an intermediate hold, get the feet up, and dyno with the right hand to a sidepull. Reach a jug.
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Aug 31, 2015
rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

Mark's beta is spot on perfect, but if you just want to reach the anchor, a jog right strips off a number grade.

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