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Red Headed Step Child 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Ralph Vega & Prentess Berry 2006
Page Views: 252
Submitted By: Alicia Sokolowski on Nov 30, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Jordan Otto on Red Headed Step Child 5.10

Description 

Starts just behind the center BBQ grill. If you go straight up, it's a good 20-25 feet to a suspect ring (the Dane Bass guide calls them bomber, maybe they were in 2006). Proper bolt about 5 feet beyond that. There were bolts to the left and right at the bottom if you want a less risky start. Forget my protection warning if using these bolts.

Felt fairly insecure basically the whole way up.

  • * Note: I haven't seen the new bolts myself, so I am leaving the prior description just in case. The recent comment states bolts were replaced and the route is no longer PG13. Safe all the way.

Protection 

Number of bolts vary depending on if you use the bolts at the left or right or go straight up (two fewer bolts on the direct start). Anchor at the top.

  • More recent comments state the bolts were replaced. If anyone wants to submit an exact count, I will happily update.


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By mountainhick
From: Black Hawk, CO
Feb 3, 2016
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

My most un-favorite route after climbing 4 days at El Potrero Chico. Run out to a joke of a junk old "ring bolt", somewhat suspicious bolt higher up, and some chossy breakable holds. Quality routes to either side. Not worth the trouble.
By AOSR
From: Wherever we park!
Jan 4, 2017

I think this has been retroed. Tons of bolts, very safe lead. Pretty fun too.
By mountainhick
From: Black Hawk, CO
Feb 5, 2017
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Yep. did it again today, super well bolted now, no longer PG13. OK climbing, seems slightly re-routed as well. Quite easy. A little stinger if you approach the anchor from the left, but easier from the right. Enjoyable!

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