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South-southwest Face (aka Santa Rita Wall)
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Glued Pin Route S 
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Red Hanger Dihedral, NW Face S 

Red Hanger Dihedral, NW Face 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: EVD, et al.
Page Views: 256
Submitted By: JFM on May 30, 2016  with updates from Rich Kelly

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BETA PHOTO: Red Hanger Dihedral route.

Description 

This 35m bolted dihedral is hard to miss when viewing the wall from any distance. It seems to be one of the easier routes on the wall, as it is generally vertical or less-than-vertical . Good stemming technique will certainly help navigate the sections of dihedral between rest ledges.

An awkward bulge guards the first two (red) hangers, then another bulge yields to more straightforward stemming work. Work up past bolts on each face, and surmount an almost-roof to reach the chains.

Location 

After approaching the Santa Rita Wall (i.e., NW face of the Piz), the striking dihedral with orange lichen patches is most easily visible from the uphill portion of the small talus field below the wall.

Rap or walk off to climber's left. A 70m rope is required for rappel.

Protection 

12 QDs plus anchor gear. The bolts appear in good condition. The first two are painted red. There is a two-bolt anchor with chains off to climber's left - an odd location may make TR difficult.


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By BoulderCharles
Jun 5, 2016
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

I really enjoyed this route. Definitely worth doing if you are nearby. The anchors are shared with another route and will make it hard to TR. It also makes cleaning the route a bit tricky, because they are not directly over the route.

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