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Strone Crag
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Akahi T 
Cat-O-Nine-Tails S 
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Cost of Business T 
Creaking Plank S 
Firefly T 
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Itchy Scratchy T 
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Major Tom T 
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Nimbus S 
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Red Gorilla S 
Road to Recovery T 
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Wealth of Nations T 

Red Gorilla 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: JS, June 2012
Page Views: 733
Submitted By: John Steiger on Jun 20, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: Red Gorilla (red) and Nimbus (blue)


This excellent short climb would be three stars if it weren'’t for the no-hands rest between the hard parts; well suited to boulderers. Scramble up easy climbing to the first clip, punch it past two more clips, rest, repeat past two more bolts to the chains. See the photodiagram on the Orbital Decay page.


Walk east on the ledge system from which Starstruck begins until two bolted lines on overhanging rock become apparent above, before the ledge begins to peter out (see the photodiagram on the main page for Strone Crag for the approach to the ledge). Red Gorilla is the right line of bolts; Nimbus is the left.


Five draws, plus two for the chains.

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By Landon McBrayer
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 30, 2013

Nice moves with the crux coming around bolt 2. Strange bolt placements. If you whip above bolt 2, you'll swing big; if you whip above bolt 4, you'll break your ankles on that big ledge. Otherwise, go for it!
By John Steiger
Sep 10, 2013

Mmm, I've whipped both places and didn't suffer the consequences suggested in the previous post, but I'll do a little re-engineering if a consensus develops.
By John Steiger
Aug 2, 2014

Okay Landon, I give. I went back to the route today and you were right. I moved a bolt and added another one. Almost protected as well as a climbing gym route now.

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