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Art of Breaking, The S 
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Unsorted Routes:

Red Faction 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Matt Samet, Katie Cavicchio
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,150
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Oct 7, 2003

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Red Faction.


This is right of two sport routes in this part of the Narrows. From the hump at the top of the corridor, descend the slippery, nasty slope toward the road. This climb takes the line of 8 bolts up the middle of the diamond-shaped face on your right, about 70 feet down from the hump.

Boulder up a faint right-facing corner (5.10+) until you can stretch left for a jug and make the first clip, about 20 feet up. (I meant to put in a lower first bolt, but didn't want to interfere with an already established bouldering traverse of the wall. A long stip clip should help here.) Continue up past two more bolts (5.11+) to a small roof. From here, 30 feet of sustained crimp and sloper climbing take you up the flat, red face to a rest. Two more bolts worth of tricky climbing gains the anchor.

This route is deceptive--all the things that look like jugs from the ground are horrible slopers. Nevertheless, this is a great, just-past-vertical face climb on water-sculpted granite that makes for a nice cold-day challenge.


10 quickdraws--8 for the route and 2 for the anchors. A stickclip might be useful for the first bolt as well.

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By Pinklebear
Sep 5, 2010

Some nice photos of the Narrows and of Red Faction here:
By scott e. tarrant
From: Fort Collins
Feb 14, 2013
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

Wonderful little route! Would have been a super hard on-sight, but she's a great little project! I think I got lucky, and she fit my style enough to have had to only spend a day in the gash. On the RP, exercise caution to not pitch from the upper 5.9/10 moves! I think Matt has contributed a ton to our community, and this little gem is a great example!

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