REI Community
(3) Red Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anastasia TR 
Arcturus TR 
Classic Crack T 
Conspiracy (aka Kashmir Direct), The S 
Critical Mass S 
Hard Body S 
Hit the Highway T,S 
Hit The Highway Pitch 1 S 
Kashmir S 
Mr. Bentley TR 
No Friction T 
On the Loose TR 
Opus S 
Physical Graffiti T 
Pinhead S 
Red Eye S 
Sheer Energy T,S 
Sheer Stress T 
Shoot From the Hip T,S 
Thai Stick S 

Red Eye 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
Page Views: 4,122
Submitted By: peachy spohn on Jul 16, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (60)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
A climber approaching the Red Eye.


Red Eye is an extremely fun and popular route. It climbs the head wall just above Classic Crack (it can be approached by Classic Crack, Thai Stick, or the walk up approach) and passes through cool huecos, using powerful moves to gain a ledge--the crux. The anchors are on an obvious ledge up left.

The route can be continued up higher (though it is seldom done) by moving right from the anchors and up a blocky section towards Kashmir's first bolt. From here, stay right and climb the obvious dihedral and crack to the top. It is roughly 60 feet to the second anchor station. The rock is solid, but dirty, and the climbing is solid 5.10.


Red Eye is on the Red Wall, just above Classic Crack.



Photos of Red Eye Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: 1st bulge is second pitch over Classic Crack 5.9+ ...
1st bulge is second pitch over Classic Crack 5.9+ ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Stacy on Kashmir
Stacy on Kashmir
Rock Climbing Photo: Rhys Schreck (age 9) cruising Red Eye.
Rhys Schreck (age 9) cruising Red Eye.
Rock Climbing Photo: Shows the routes namesake "Red Eye"
Shows the routes namesake "Red Eye"

Comments on Red Eye Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ian G.
From: PDX, OR
Jan 23, 2010
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

This is easily combined with classic crack if you don't place too much pro early on.
By Scott Robertson
From: Portland, OR
Feb 4, 2012

F.A. Monty Mayko I believe.
By another Chad
Dec 9, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I'm seeing a lot of 5.10b ratings given to Red Eye. I suspect the same people aren't climbing the second and third pitches!

By Vince Schreck
From: Portland, OR
Jul 19, 2013

Felt like really hard 5.10 to me, especially if you've just finished Classic Crack and are continuing on Red Eye. Cool route with a couple big moves.
By Micah Klesick
From: Vancouver, WA
Oct 3, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

First pitch of Red Eye, (linked with Thai Stick, 5.10d) is a classic 5.10a. Definitely not harder than that though...
Amazing rock and moves!
By NickP
From: Golden, CO
Oct 7, 2014

I haven't climbed P3, but P2 leading up to Kashmir is NO JOKE. The strenuous, insecure, and not-so-obvious crux sequence makes you think twice about your 5.12 redpoint attempt (for me anyway). Definitely well protected though.
By Rod J.
From: Bend, OR
Apr 7, 2016
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I've climbed at ~35 different areas around the US, and have definitely never found a route of this difficulty that was rated a 5.10a! However, I haven't climbed in the Gunks (yet) where I hear the ratings are stiff. If the word 'classic' is interchangeable with 'old school', then maybe.
By another Chad
Apr 8, 2016
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

P1? I think that 5.10- is commensurate with other Broughton climbs at that grade. There are quite a few 5.10a's and 10b's there that feel harder to me than the first pitch of Red Eye: Tip City, Short Circuit, The Spring, Gandalf's Grip, Risky Business, and p2 of Loose Block Overhang. If you want to see what 5.10c feels like, check out the second pitch of Red Eye, Shoot From the Hip, Fun In the Mud, Short Fuse, or Superstition. You might reconsider the first pitch of Red Eye as a 5.10c position. ;) Broughton's just a tough place.

Most importantly, hope you had fun on Red Eye and CC!


Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About