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Red Dwarf 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: EFR,JSt,BMorin,'06
Page Views: 990
Submitted By: 1Eric Rhicard on Apr 3, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Fun with Red Dwarf


Short left angling crack 5.12 leads to a big ledge and total recovery. Move back right and clip one of two bolts (for top-roping crack) then head up steep face 5.11 to anchors. These double bolts can be reached by climbing around the left side of the formation to the previously mentioned ledge. You can hang draws on these to TR the crack. Take some small cams for directionals. You can also hike to top of crag tie off an oak work out to the front of the formation and single line rap to chains. You then have to have someone untie the rope so you can set up the TR. Or you can lead it.


From the Griddle hike for two minutes up and left along the wall. Where the trail splits at a cairn go left 50 feet and you will be below the Red Dwarf


Gear to yellow camalot size. A couple of purple or green cams is helpful. A great wired stopper can be worked in from the ground with a stick to protect the first moves.

Photos of Red Dwarf Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Jesse hiking 'Red Dwarf' 5.12 trad
Jesse hiking 'Red Dwarf' 5.12 trad
Rock Climbing Photo: Jesse starting up 'Red Dwarf' 5.12 with Jimbo spot...
Jesse starting up 'Red Dwarf' 5.12 with Jimbo spot...
Rock Climbing Photo: Jesse crushing 'Red Dwarf' 5.12 trad
Jesse crushing 'Red Dwarf' 5.12 trad

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By Jimbo
Jan 26, 2010

First stopper can be placed on lead. (Stick it in your teeth already clipped to the lead line)
Gear spoiler: 1 yellow camalot, 2 green camalots, 1 red camalot, 1 purple camalot and a number 3 camalot at the top if your really scared.
You gotta figure out the order they go in by yourself.

This is a short, safe, fun and challenging trad line. (Not too many of these on the Lemmon)
By karatepete
From: tucson, AZ
Feb 21, 2010

thanks jim, i was gonna ask about the gear.
By Eric D
From: Gnarnia
Feb 27, 2010
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Great route! Though, both Adam and I thought it was 11d/12aish. Sun spots is a nice hard trad crag, not many of those on Mt. Lemmon. Adds a lot to the mountain. Nice work EFR and others.
By Jimbo
Mar 1, 2010

Have you done Aurora no Boreals on gear? It seems easier than Red Dwarf to me. Hence the 12a/b rating.
By Eric D
From: Gnarnia
Mar 14, 2010
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Nope, haven't done Aurora on gear yet. But, Red Dwarf on gear went easier for me than Aurora on bolts.
By Eric D
From: Gnarnia
Apr 11, 2010
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Now I know why! My beta was all wrong on Aurora. I was using the 12c beta. Yes, Aurora is easier.

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