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Menses Prow
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Abscessed Words to Climb S 
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B.O.S.S. Method, The S 
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Baroque Period, The S 
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Lick My Love Pump aka Love Pump S 
Light Days S 
Liquid Affair S 
Lunch at the Y S 
Menses S 
Metaphysical Fictions S 
My What a Big Bulge S 
No Passion for Fashion S 
Original Route S 
Period Epic S 
Period Piece S 
Pig Dictionary S 
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Red Dog S 
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Shelf's Worst Route S 
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Stratabulge S 
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Sundogs S 
Thirteen Engines S 
True to Tradition/Tucker's Faith S 
Turbo Charged, Inter-Cooled Meat Machine S 
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Unsorted Routes:

Red Dog 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,367
Submitted By: Sean O'Dell on May 21, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (126)
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This excellent route is located on the west face of the California Ethics Pinacle (CEP on the pictures of the area). To get there, follow the sand gulch trail as described for Period Piece. CEP is the obvious detached tower of rock about 30 yards west of the eastern end of Menses Prow.

Everything about this route is 3 star, in my oppinion. Start on the lower right side of the west face on small, sharp pockets. Angle slightly left and negotiate a small overhang. The pro is all bomber, the climbing is aesthetic, and the views of the valley are outstanding. Probably the best route of its grade that I have done at Shelf. The only thing that could make it better is if it were longer.


4 bolts to anchors.

Photos of Red Dog Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Tim leading Red Dog.
Tim leading Red Dog.
Rock Climbing Photo: California Ethics Pinnacle.
California Ethics Pinnacle.
Rock Climbing Photo: Happened to get a shot of his first real whipper o...
Happened to get a shot of his first real whipper o...
Rock Climbing Photo: Julie Logan on the 5.9 Red Dog on the California P...
Julie Logan on the 5.9 Red Dog on the California P...
Rock Climbing Photo: Cody finishing up a great trip with a go on Red Do...
Cody finishing up a great trip with a go on Red Do...
Rock Climbing Photo: Short but sweet.
Short but sweet.
Rock Climbing Photo: Red Dog
Red Dog
Rock Climbing Photo: Jason H. at the top of Red Dog.
Jason H. at the top of Red Dog.
Rock Climbing Photo: Red Dog climbs the west face of the California Eth...
BETA PHOTO: Red Dog climbs the west face of the California Eth...

Comments on Red Dog Add Comment
Show which comments
By Anonymous Coward
Jun 26, 2002

uhhhh, 5.7? didn't inflation go out with the [Reagan Administration]??
By Sean O'Dell
Jul 27, 2002

Looks like we have the same problem on this route as we do on Bat Crack - different guide books (and different climbers, for that matter) give it entirely different ratings. The someit as 5.7, Knapp's book lists it at 5.9. Personally, I'll admit I thought it was soft for a 9, stout for a 7. I guess the moral of the story is that there is good deal of debate surrounding ratings in this area, so forget the numbers game, use the rating as a "ballpark," climb it yourself, and draw your own conclusions.
Dec 31, 2002

Just typing to let you know that yesterday, I typed Red Dog and Tucker's Faith in criss-cross; Red Dog is on the North-West facing wall, and Tucker's Faith is on the North-East side of the South-East facing California Pinnacle arête. I spaced out the fact that I criss-crossed the names after Fred Napp printed the fact that, the North-West facing (of the California Pinnacle) looks like a beer bottle... This is just to you.... not on-line....Thank you for not printing anything about... The Flame... because of liability; The very first time I did it, I on-sight, solo, flashed the last pitch-with no Bata and no rope; The Traditional climber's who watched and who heard about it, all said that NO PERSON HAD EVER ON-SIGHT, SOLO, FLASHED THAT PITCH WITHOUT A ROPE, AND WITH NO BATTA BEFORE... 1991?Take it easy...CLR
By Doug Lintz
From: Kearney, NE
Oct 5, 2008

An interesting move or two but nothing spectacular. It's easier to stay right on the arete and stretch left to clip.
By Arlo F Niederer
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Apr 3, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

The anchor bolts are cold shuts.

The left one is worn about 1/3 through and needs to be replaced.
By jamesm
From: Canon City, Co
Oct 30, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

It's a fun 9, that's for sure. Just run the face, maybe look right for some new stuff, but all in all a solid fun 9. One of my favs.
By Derek Lawrence
From: Bailey
Apr 25, 2016

4th bolt replaced 4/23/16 with stainless steel bolt/hanger provided by ASCA.
The anchors and remaining bolts had already been updated.

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