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Devil's Den Bouldering
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Red Devil 

Hueco: V8 Font: 7B

   
Type:  Boulder, 10'
Original:  Hueco: V8 Font: 7B [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,027
Submitted By: lee hansche on Sep 20, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Mid-battle

Description 

Start on the left side sitting down. The is a good foot way to the left and very slopey holds heading up right. Make a few moves right before popping big to a decent arete way out right. Bear hug a few moves until you can gain a hollow jug and climb on top.

Sloper skills with a side of explosive power will be the recipe for this little number.

Location 

A bit tricky to find but it is just down in to the talus from the left end of the cliff. Not quite as far over as Heat Wave but close.

Easiest to find by walking past Numb Thumb and continue scrambling toward the left end of the cliff. Check out the pics so you know what you are looking for.

Protection 

A few pads and a spotter.


Photos of Red Devil Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: keith sticking the crux lunge
keith sticking the crux lunge
Rock Climbing Photo: Keith, mid toss on the crux of red devil!
Keith, mid toss on the crux of red devil!
Rock Climbing Photo: Keith near the start.
Keith near the start.

Comments on Red Devil Add Comment
Show which comments
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Sep 20, 2013
rating: V8 7B

Sweet Lee, I'm glad you posted this up. This is an excellent problem!! As you said, it's very unique movement. It starts out like a classic Pway sloper traverse, but suddenly requires a very unique dyno move.

I captured some video footage of this problem a few weeks ago. I'll be posting it up at some point as part of a larger video.
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Sep 20, 2013
rating: V8 7B

PS- If you have Keith's contact info, can you tell him that he left his chalk bag at the Trailside Boulder at Blair Woods when we were climbing there together the other day. I didn't know how to get in touch with him so I just left it there, thinking that he would remember he left it there. Thanks!
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Sep 21, 2013

right on, ill let him know...
cant wait to get on this problem personally... im just healing a few tweaks at the moment...
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Nov 16, 2013
rating: V8 7B

Footage of this problem begins at 1:10

By Ian McAfee
From: Concord, NH
Oct 10, 2014

Friendly holds, great movement, should be more popular!
By Troy Fauteux
From: Henniker NH
Nov 23, 2015
rating: V8- 7B

I got some pretty good footage and beta for this awesome problem!
By tylermoody
Dec 19, 2015

This climb is incredibly fun and well worth the hike through the talus field. Every hold is good (include the hollow jug, while it lasts) and the feet are great by Pawtuckaway standards. Good conditions might make it feel easier, especially for taller climbers.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Dec 21, 2015

I've gotta try some of these "good conditions" you speak of... I'm tall and found it plenty stout! great work!
By Samuel Lee
Apr 26, 2016

A good chunk of the RH start hold broke off this past weekend...seems like it probably still goes the same, though.
By Graham O.
Sep 4, 2016
rating: V8+ 7B+

Cool but really hard, you can't even pull on midway through because the holds are too bad to get off the ground! Amazingly dangerous for how short it is, but the climbing was very worthwhile.