REI Community
Red Devil

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Berserker T 
East Face Right/Red Devil T 
Hell Freezes Over S 
Hell in a Bucket S 
Paradise Lost S 
So Easy, Even A Caveman Can Do It T 
South Face T 
Unsorted Routes:

Red Devil Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 6,800'
Location: 39.9749, -105.289 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 5,624
Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Warren Teissier on Oct 25, 2001
Forecast:
Sorry, weather is currently unavailable.
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Ramp access to top of first pitch, Hell Freezes Ov...

  • Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>
  • Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    The Red Devil is the large Flatiron North of Der Zerkle. Like Der Zerkle, its East face is crossed horizontally by a substantial overhang. Above the overhang and close to the center of the face, a Chimney/trough starts and ends just before reaching the ledge for the final summit block. The Red Devil East face is, well, RED. And can be easily spotted from the Mesa trail.

    For the most part, the rock is good although on the South (left side) of the red spot the rock is exfoliating some, so don't yank on them flakes too hard. The rock to the left of the chimney is great.

    Getting There 

    To reach the bottom of the East Face, follow the Mallory cave trail to Square Rock and start bushwacking to the North West from here. When you reach the red Devil you will notice the Unicorn, a small Flatiron leaning against the North side of the East face of Red Devil. The Unicorn will block you from going too far to the North.

    To reach the South Face continue up the Mallory Cave trail past the original rock pitch to the cave (water groove) and until the trail switch backs two feet from the South face and you are under a blocky dihedral with 2 large trees some 30 feet above. If you continue up the trail you will wind up almost on top of the Red Devil and the descent blocks will be clearly visible.

    Climbing Season

    For the Central area.

    Weather station 2.9 miles from here

    7 Total Climbing Routes

    ['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
    ['<=5.6',3],['5.7',1],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',0],['5.11',1],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

    Classic Climbing Routes in Red Devil

    Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Red Devil:
    East Face Right/Red Devil   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R     Trad, 2 pitches   
    Paradise Lost   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
    Hell in a Bucket   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
    Hell Freezes Over   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 2 pitches, 140'   
    Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Red Devil

    Featured Route For Red Devil
    Rock Climbing Photo: The South Face of the Red Devil, at the base of Pa...

    Paradise Lost 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c  Colorado : Flatirons : ... : Red Devil
    Paradise Lost was approved as a new route by the Flatirons Climbing Council and Boulder OSMP in the spring of 2006. It climbs the beautiful South Face of the Red Devil, and starts two switchbacks below Hell Freezes Over. The climbing is steep and juggy on solid rock. Paradise Lost gets direct midday sun, so is most pleasant in spring and fall. Be aware of poison ivy at the base, which is easily avoided....[more]   Browse More Classics in Colorado

    Photos of Red Devil Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Red Devil (not my photo but a nice one nonetheless...
    Red Devil (not my photo but a nice one nonetheless...
    Rock Climbing Photo: The view looking back towards "civilization&q...
    The view looking back towards "civilization&q...

    Comments on Red Devil Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Flatirons Climbing Council
    Aug 2, 2016
    A new route requiring fixed hardware is being proposed on the south face of the Red Devil. The application for bolting has been received by the FCC for the August 1 cycle. Details of the proposed route can be found here on the FCC site: flatironsclimbing.org/current-...

    Please feel free to post any comments you have on the application. The public meeting will be held at the Spot on September 1, 2016 at 6:30, and everyone is welcome to join and vote there.

    Mountain Project

    The Definitive Climbing Resource

    MTB Project

    Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

    Powder Project

    Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
    FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About