REI Community
Crystal Wall Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arch Traverse S 
Crystal Blue Persuasion S 
Crystal Chute T 
Crystal Wall Route S 
Friction Affliction T 
Ice House Roof S 
Ice House Roof Direct S 
Independence Wall S 
More Affliction T 
Red Dawn S 

Red Dawn 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a X

   
Type:  Sport, 3 pitches, 450'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a X [details]
FA: Chad Suchoski (2011)
Page Views: 216
Submitted By: Ney Grant on Jun 24, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Description 

Unfortunately this climb has serious groundfall potential before the first bolt so it is hard to recommend. The climb was put up in 2011 by a solo climber for his own enjoyment. From the boulder you must step across onto the wall for an immediate 10 feet of exposure, then climb up and continue up to the bolt about 30 feet above the ground. From there it is a nice runout face climb, no harder than 5.7, straight up the wall for two pitches (each with two bolts) ending with a belay with uneven bolts with rings and screwlinks that we added. From there the third pitch heads up and slightly right past one bolt on very easy climbing, then up and left to the very top anchor / rap chains. Or head dead right to the chained rap station on Friction Affliction.

Location 

From More Affliction move left and climb atop a large boulder. Really the only large boulder from the arch to the slab/pinnacle that Crystal Blue Persuasion is on. From there you can see and covet the first bolt.

On the topo image found under "Crystal Wall Area", this is climb number 5.

Protection 

All bolts.


Comments on Red Dawn Add Comment
Show which comments
By Salamanizer suchoski
Administrator
From: Vacaville Ca.
Jun 29, 2016

I put that route up in 2011 I think. I'll have to check. I did it ground up drilling at stances. It's no harder than 5.7 after the first bolt I thought. I took the route all the way to the summit. There is a big rarely visited cairn up there with some trinkets left from past climbers. I think I left a piton there.
I called it Red Dawn because we were up there hunting in the morning and the entire wall was red and orange. My silhouette against the rock with the rifle reminded me of that movie Red Dawn from the 80's. I put the entire route up in about 3 hours later that day on a solo belay.

I've soloed a few of blank walls up there and most of the cracks. At least until they peter out or reach a big ledge. The rock is quite good but low angle. Not much around harder than 5.7. The bolts on a lot of the old routes up there are still good I think, but some of them have one bolt anchors which I was never too thrilled about. Always meant to replace all that stuff sometime.

Really nice area. Still has that "very remote" feeling. Is a great area to learn how to put routes in ground up. You can pretty much climb anywhere on it. Tread lightly please!
By Ney Grant
From: Pollock Pines, CA
Jun 30, 2016

Hi Salamanizer,

That must be your route, there are no other routes on the entire dome that use modern bolts. Nice route! I'm not going to touch your route, but maybe you can revisit it at some point and see if you agree that another bolt closer the ground might be good for the 5.7/5.8 climber. I don't really care either way but I bet more people would enjoy your route with another bolt.

Well, I did touch your route in a way. I added a second bolt at the second belay, or maybe I replaced a 1/4" bolt there in addition to yours. Whatever, there are now two good bolts at each belay.

I should credit you on the climb. Do you want to PM me with your name?
By Salamanizer suchoski
Administrator
From: Vacaville Ca.
Jul 1, 2016

Honestly, I was only trying to get to the top. I placed bolts where I felt I needed one with zero regard for anyone who might want to do a repeat. It's a beautiful wall and I just wanted to climb it. I wasn't trying to make any sort of bold statement or anything. If you feel like it needs added bolts to be in character with other routes on the dome, then by all means add whatever you like. I'd rather that than take up a nice section of the wall that will never be climbed again. I'd prefer that you put the bolts in ground up though. That way you can share in the thrill and experience I had when doing the F.A.

Love the area and work you're doing out there and on here. Thanks for posting the info.
By Ney Grant
From: Pollock Pines, CA
Jul 1, 2016

That sounds good. With some long trips coming up we will probably not be out until the fall, and even then we plan to just enjoy the climbs we put up, so it would be quite a while before I get around to that. However I appreciate your permission for me or someone else to add a new "first" bolt (from the ground up).

But hey, it may be a while, and perhaps other will weigh in that it is fine the way it is, as a "bold" runout climb.
By bob branscomb
From: Lander, WY
Jul 14, 2017

Went over to the first pitch anchor on this route from the last bolt on More Affliction and then did the second pitch of this route 7/12/17...liked the second pitch on this alot anyway...makes for a fine two pitches.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About