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Red Alert  T 

Red Alert  

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a A1 PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 1 pitch, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a A1 PG13 [details]
FA: Trevor Bowman & Roy Suggett
New Route: Yes
Season: All but the heat of summer
Page Views: 170
Submitted By: Roy Suggett on Mar 5, 2017

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Roy enjoys the summit of Code Sentry.

Description 

Climb: Code Sentry Tower in the upper end of Hackberry Canyon

Route: Follow the Red Alert line on the south side of the Code Sentry

A rather picturesque guardian of our current freedoms and the upper reaches of Hackberry Canyon. This sentry stands alone to inspire those who venture down this remote and beautiful drainage. The line is free for the first half but turns to fixed anchors and aid for the last portion. The transition between these two styles will be your crux, albeit relatively safe.

The line is the obvious weakness on the south side of the monolith. It starts on easy blocks which lead to a vertical hand crack. Run up this to a horizontal and cut right. Place shallow gear here prior to an awkward move on to a soft shoulder. Gain good footing and clip a pin (loose...bring a #2 angle to improve). Step onto the face left and then straight up the face past the drilled pin and two bolts. The exit will need a large stopper or a .5/.75 BD cam. This is not for those who require rock solid metamorphic climbing. Red Alert will expect an experienced hacker to sign the register on the summit.

Location 

The Code Sentry Tower is at the upper reaches of Hackberry Canyon. From the entrance sign of Kodachrome Basin State Park travel east on the Cottonwood Road for about 4.7 miles. On your right is an obscure double track (BLM 422) which leads south and west for about 1.5 miles to an obvious turn-about just above the wash/canyon. Park here and start your 20 minute approach. The Code Sentry Tower is on the right bank as you descend and can not be missed.

Protection 

Active: BD .5 X 1, .75 X 1, #1 X 2, #2 X 2, #3 X 3, & #4s X 2.

Passive: Medium to large nuts.

Fixed: One drilled pin, two bolts.

Misc.: Three or four QDs and a few runners.

Anchor: Two bolts with shuts.

Rope: 60 m


Photos of Red Alert Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Red Alert Topo
BETA PHOTO: Red Alert Topo
Rock Climbing Photo: Roy and the north aspect of the Sentry. Red Alert ...
Roy and the north aspect of the Sentry. Red Alert ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Trevor on FA
Trevor on FA

Comments on Red Alert Add Comment
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By Roy Suggett
Mar 6, 2017

Get a GSENM map at the visitor's center in Cannonville to better find BLM Rd. 422. Just going hiking...skip the climbing chat.

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