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Recommended rack near Syracuse?
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May 23, 2016
Hey all,

I'll be new to the area in August and am looking for crags around Syracuse.
I know the Addies are close, and southern mountain and little falls. Its all a little bit of a drive but not bad.

While looking at these, for most routes the pro just says standard rack, and having climbed enough to realize that that isn't always the same thing, I was curious as to if someone could give me a bit of advice on how to stock my rack for the Addies and maybe Gunks?

Thanks all!
Joined Apr 16, 2016
1 points
May 23, 2016
.3-3 BD or equivalent w/set of nuts. that will tackle most routes. tricams are nice for gunks but not necessary. i know of no other crags. have fun seymorealpine
Joined May 23, 2016
76 points
May 24, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Epic belay shot
Found a .3/.4 x4 offset very useful for a number of tricky to protect gunks cruxes. Pink, red, brown tricams is the standard addition if you're headed to the GUNKS. Grew up in Rochester so I commiserate that this part of the state sucks for a climber. Sorry abou that! Medic741
From Red Hook, New York
Joined Apr 1, 2012
288 points
May 25, 2016
Be sure to check out the Southern ADK crags. Closest quality climbing to CNY folks. Little Falls will get old quick. Lost T, Statebrook, Otter Lake Cliffs. Nine corners for quality bouldering. tgsmith
From NH
Joined May 6, 2012
115 points
May 26, 2016
Addies? ADDIES??

Joined Jul 29, 2009
2,583 points
May 26, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Me Climbing
Gunkiemike wrote:
Addies? ADDIES?? Puhleeze.


I lived in Utica for about a year which is about an hour East of Syracuse. Awful area... some of the most boring days of my life. To make up for it I drove 3 hours every weekend to the Gunks or ADKs. Usually by myself to meet people from Albany or other points to the East as no one from CNY seems to climb.

Little Falls is pretty bad. I would go after work and treat it more like a gym.

Eagle Falls is pretty cool and it is closer to the West side of the park but still like 2 hours from Syracuse. Little T and some other southern crags are good also.

Rack wise the standard rack is good. I seemed to place a lot of stuff in the fingers sizes.

Good luck. Its a hard place to live being a climber. Glad I left.
Alex Mitchell
From Cincinnati, OH
Joined May 14, 2012
2,259 points
May 26, 2016
Step one.. seriously never call them the addies ever again.. you sound like a 13 year old girl talking about her boy band crush... if you want to abbreviate.. go ahead and just say ADK's...

Second.. .5-3 c4's set of c3's down to 0 or 00 nuts.. good to go and get at lies 6-8 alpine draws.
From Boulder,Co
Joined May 5, 2014
29 points
May 26, 2016
crakatoa wrote:
if you want to abbreviate.. go ahead and just say ADK's...

"Dacks" is also a common and acceptable abbreviation.

And for equipment, I recommend a fast car.
From Seattle, WA
Joined Jun 9, 2008
65 points
May 26, 2016
Don't hate on little falls. It's a great little spot for lazy days when you don't want to spend six+ hours driving.

For example, I used to love running laps on devil won't care:

Plus the setting is interesting to say the least. If you do more then climb, central New York isn't a bad place to live.
From Reno, NV
Joined Apr 10, 2015
58 points
May 26, 2016
The upsides is (when the winter doesn't suck like last year) there is some pretty high class ice at Salmon River Falls. To survive in CNY you need to embrace winter and pick up winter sports like Ice Climbing, XC skiing, that can be done close to home. Otherwise, cabin fever grows fast because there are very few sunshine days from November thru March. Apline skiing in CNY is pretty running laps on tiny local hills of town (3 min down, 10 min waiting for the lift). Head 45 min north to the Tug Hill plateau and the XC ski options are pretty much limitless, both single track and groomed skate skiing on state land or private ski areas. Nathan Stokes
Joined Oct 20, 2008
479 points
May 26, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Heart of Darkness
Gunkiemike wrote:
Addies? ADDIES?? Puhleeze.

I was hoping someone would say something about this! It was getting under my skin, like a humongous chigger.
sara pax
From western mass, but traveling...
Joined Jun 29, 2013
246 points
May 26, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Rumney
I very rarely head towards Central NY, for anything/any reason. If that gives you some idea of what you're facing. I lived in Utica for 2 years, not by choice (high school age). It's a very economically depressed area, industry up and left decades ago.

Like previously mentioned, the only climbing (outside of Little Falls) is 2+ hours away. Little Falls has its use, but during hot sunny days it's not even an option. The black rock just bakes.

You will find some people from CNY who climb. You can hopefully car pool which will help a bit on gas and miles on the vehicle.

In Syracuse you have recreation options on Lake Ontario, if that's your sort of thing. Lots of birding and other wildlife refuge nearby. Just nothing 'destination' worthy for most people, at least nothing that can't be found comparable elsewhere within a shorter drive. Wine tasting tour maybe? *shrug*
Kevin Heckeler
From Upstate New York
Joined Jul 10, 2010
1,629 points
May 26, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Leading "Chunky Chimbly" at sunset
Sent you a PM. Little Falls has a nice climbing community, very friendly from what I've seen so far. There's a good deal of climbing to keep you busy for a while, but it's no destination. Luckily I can escape to college for much of the year... Anyway, work on your camping skills, makes weekends in the ADK that much more enjoyable! Campsites in Chapel Pond Pass will be close to a high concentration of quality rock, for example.

Also, I'm from near Utica, there's a good group of climbers in the general vicinity- join the Little Falls climbers Facebook group of you're looking for information or partners
Nolan Huther
From Clarkson University
Joined Dec 26, 2014
645 points
May 26, 2016
Fishing rod Chris Re
From Boise, ID
Joined Apr 8, 2003
16 points
May 27, 2016
Relevant discussion here. Jim Lawyer
Joined Feb 19, 2006
1,823 points
May 27, 2016
I spent a few summers working in the high peaks in the 90's, and even "Dacks" marked you as an outsider. n00b
Joined Apr 20, 2016
0 points

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