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Recommended Glacier/Alpine Routes - Cascades, etc
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May 21, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Leading "Chunky Chimbly" at sunset
I'm looking for good peaks and routes to attempt in the Cascades or the volcanoes. Eldorado Peak's East Ridge is a good one I'm looking at, anything similar in terms of difficulty (or lack thereof), positioning and scenery? Mount Hood's standard South Side Route is tempting as well, but the described crowds seem a bit of a distraction. Nolan Huther
From Clarkson University
Joined Dec 26, 2014
650 points
May 21, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Seneca Holloween
Assuming you are looking at stuff to essentially solo, or with partner but minimal/no technical pitches; just off the cuff ... YMMV

-Colchuck Glacier in the Enchantments.

-Sherpa Glacier in the Enchantments - link to summit Stuart.

-Probably many, many more options in Enchantments for what you are looking for. I believe the road to eight mile campground is open now, but if not it should be opening soon.

-NF of Shuksan.

-Fisher Chimney on Shuksan.

-Baker Coleman-Demming.

-Buckner NF or N Couloir (will require legit glacier travel to get there, plus the sharkfin col or Boston Basin - both of which can suck pretty big).

-SW Couloir on NEWS (maybe SEWS), very, very short route, but impeccable position along the Liberty Bell Group. Also lots of other options in the area.

-Rainer DC, Winthrop.

-Pickets will certainly have stuff, but I'm not familiar enough to give you good reccoomendations.

I would avoid S Side of Hood, pretty bad, tons of people, far from NCNP.
Dave Schultz
From Saratoga Springs, New York
Joined Sep 11, 2011
609 points
May 21, 2016
North Ridge of Baker Avi Katz
Joined Sep 8, 2010
273 points
May 23, 2016
Check out Jim Nelson's guidebooks "Selected Climbs in the Cascades" Vol 1 &2. Great stuff to keep you busy and a good starting point as far as beta goes. Maxgl
From Seattle, Washington
Joined Aug 15, 2014
48 points
May 23, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Leading "Chunky Chimbly" at sunset
Great recommendations! I'll look into the guidebook- coming from Upstate NY I'm not exactly a local and not familiar with a lot of this region Nolan Huther
From Clarkson University
Joined Dec 26, 2014
650 points
May 23, 2016
I wouldn't go up the gully on SEWS now. It is melted out already and just a choss pile of crap w/o snow. Really sketchy for party induced rockfall.

If you're already out on cascade river road Sahale is gorgeous. Some exposed rock scramble, you can rap off the summit, nothing too technical.

Snowfield peak is a good one.

Black peak.
Nick Drake
From Newcastle, WA
Joined Jan 20, 2015
393 points


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