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Recommendations for a shoe that edges well?
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Aug 26, 2016
The Evolv Bandits have always been my to-go shoe for hard, technical face climbs (think Smith Rock). However, they are no longer being made so I am looking for something new--something that edges well. I dont want to pay a ridiculous amount for new shoes (e.g. TC Pros) and I'd prefer a lace-up, but it's not a deal breaker. So let's hear it, what's the Evolv Bandit replacement? 20 kN
From Hawaii
Joined Feb 2, 2009
1,219 points
Aug 26, 2016
Spend the money. These are one of you most important tools. Id suggest 5/10 for you as they have a similar fit to evolve.

I own 5:10 verde and lasportiva TC pro's and they will both hold a small edge . I love the 5:10 rubber
djh860
Joined Dec 28, 2014
105 points
Aug 26, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing at the Gallery in Red Rocks
20 kN wrote:
The Evolv Bandits have always been my to-go shoe for hard, technical face climbs (think Smith Rock). However, they are no longer being made so I am looking for something new--something that edges well. I dont want to pay a ridiculous amount for new shoes (e.g. TC Pros) and I'd prefer a lace-up, but it's not a deal breaker. So let's hear it, what's the Evolv Bandit replacement?


From the Evolv lineup the Luchador is a decent edging shoe. If your feet fit in 5.10 at all, the 5.10 Anasazi Blanco is coming back and it is (or was, hopefully they didn't change anything on it) one of the best edging shoes available.

Edit to add: I just wanted to add that the Luchador isn't in the same league as the Blanco as far as edging goes, but Evolv doesn't really have anything in their current lineup as far as an amazing edging shoe goes (at least not one that I've tried).
kennoyce
From Layton, UT
Joined Aug 12, 2010
2,061 points
Administrator
Aug 26, 2016
kennoyce wrote:
If your feet fit in 5.10 at all,

How does 5.10 fit compared to Evolv. For example, the Evolv Defy? The Evolv Defy, Quest AF and Bandit all fit my foot shape perfectly. I've yet to try 5.10.
20 kN
From Hawaii
Joined Feb 2, 2009
1,219 points
Aug 26, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: yukon
If Evolvs fit your foot well, you might want to stick with them. I was in the hunt for an edging shoe after climbing in Evolv Geshidos for a while and tried a ton of shoes from LS (including the TC Pro), Scarpa, 5.10 and ended up with the Evolv Luchador. I have a low volume heel and a sensitive achilles and Evolvs are the only shoes that don't hurt or leave dead space around my heel. It's not the stiffest shoe but it's hands down the most comfortable I have worn and I can still stand on dime edges. I only paid 65 bucks for them on sierratradingpost.com.

Regardless of what you read in the reviews, they do stretch when they get sweaty so size 'em tight. I ended up having to downsize a full size after climbing in mine for 3-4 sessions on the woody. I'm a 9 street shoe, 8.5 5.10, 9.5 Geshido, 9 Luchador. I noticed the sizes of each shoe varies and the L and R can be up to a half size off from each other so try on a bunch. 9.5 was too small on 1 foot but a pair of 9 fit me perfect. Weird.
Seth Jones
Joined Feb 17, 2015
39 points
Aug 26, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Belaying 2nd (or was it 3rd? 4th?) on Turk's Head ...
You might check out the Anasazi Pinks as well. Ted Pinson
From Chicago, IL
Joined Jul 11, 2014
178 points
Aug 26, 2016
Five Ten Verdon lace up Redyns
Joined Apr 11, 2011
16 points
Aug 26, 2016
The heel cup in 5.10s tends to run a bit looser than Evolv models of comparable size. Lots of places still have bandit lace ups and velcros on stock online, although size selection may be limited.

And yeah, I climbed the hell out of many pairs of bandit vs. Awesome edging and good for cracks. only complaint was that the fabric and rubber just below the Achilles would split and tear before any other part of the shoe making them poor candidates for resoling.
BrianWS
Joined Apr 22, 2010
850 points
Aug 26, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing at the Gallery in Red Rocks
20 kN wrote:
How does 5.10 fit compared to Evolv. For example, the Evolv Defy? The Evolv Defy, Quest AF and Bandit all fit my foot shape perfectly. I've yet to try 5.10.


The main issue with 5.10 is the heel usually has a bunch of dead space in it for my feet (I also find evolv shoes to fit my feet better than any other brand), but I think that at least with the latest version of the Anasazi VCS they made the heel much better, so hopefully the same will hold true for the new Blanco. As far as sizing, I wear a 9.5 Defy, and a 10 Blanco (assuming that the sizing doesn't change on the new Blanco). Also, as others have said, the Verdon is supposed to be a good edging shoe, but I haven't tried it.
kennoyce
From Layton, UT
Joined Aug 12, 2010
2,061 points
Aug 26, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Killis Howard?
tight Miuras Tim Lutz
Joined Aug 9, 2012
43 points


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