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Recommendations for a new technical shoe?
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Jan 31, 2016
I am looking for a replacement shoe for technical, vertical, crimpy sport. Think Smith Rocks. At present, I use the Evolv Quest AFs, which are great but no longer made. What I would like to see in a replacement shoe:

1. Laceup
2. Stiff enough to edge well (very important), but some level of sensitivity is very important as well.
3. Not ridiculously overpriced
4. Conformable

La Sportiva doesent seem to fit my feet well and they are a rip off so I probably wont get anything from them.
20 kN
From Hawaii
Joined Feb 2, 2009
1,219 points
Administrator
Jan 31, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Me and the offspring walking back to the car after...
Tenaya Tatanka Jake Jones
From Richmond, VA
Joined Jul 30, 2011
1,216 points
Jan 31, 2016
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Tenaya Masai or possibly the possibly the Tenaya Ra, but I suspect the Ra may be too downturned? Wungiz
From Asheville, NC
Joined Mar 23, 2005
240 points
Jan 31, 2016
If Evolv fit your feet check out their website. A couple newnoferings coming up that look great. jbrown2
From Bend, Oregon
Joined Jun 29, 2011
123 points
Jan 31, 2016
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Sounds like the 5.10 Verdons kinda fit the bill? I think they look pretty sweet, have not had them on though. Danny P
From San Diego
Joined Nov 7, 2013
42 points
Jan 31, 2016
five ten anasazi lace. the whites work for me, haven't tried the new pinks yet. verdons look nice but fit more like a sportiva mikeinvt
Joined Aug 27, 2010
77 points
Jan 31, 2016
5.10 Pinks or Verdon. NorCalNomad
From San Francisco
Joined Oct 6, 2011
127 points
Administrator
Feb 1, 2016
jbrown2 wrote:
If Evolv fit your feet check out their website. A couple newnoferings coming up that look great.

On that note, I found a pair of Bandet laceups on eBay for a good price. Any idea how sensitive they are? From what I read, they edge well and they should fit my feet well as all other Evolv shoes do, but I am wondering if they are sensitive enough to actually feel anything.

It's always a constant struggle with sensitivity and edging power since both are very important yet you cant really have both as one tends to decrease the other.
20 kN
From Hawaii
Joined Feb 2, 2009
1,219 points
Administrator
Feb 1, 2016
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Jake Jones wrote:
Tenaya Tatanka


i had a pair of tatankas for a day and they were absolutely terrible at vertical climbing on small holds. they have literally zero torsional stiffness. at the end of one pitch (that wasn't even that difficult...) the shoe had rotated around my foot so much that the toes were literally sticking up in the air (like little dutch boy wooden shoes).

i have a pair of ras, and i like them quite a bit - although they are velcro, so they might not be what you are looking for. it took a little bit to get used to them on small holds, but once i figured out how to line my foot up a little differently on the hold than with other shoes, they have been remarkably precise.
slim
Joined Dec 1, 2004
2,153 points
Administrator
Feb 1, 2016
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I'm so sold on the Tenaya Tafira. Smith Rock is one of the places I use them, and love them. They've lasted me far longer than my old Evolv Shamans, and edge much better. 3.5mm rand, so you can feel the rock better, and my footwork has certainly gotten better since switching due to that. The rubber seems to stick to anything, and has enough of a down turn that you can grip with them, but not so much that they don't work for vertical routes. IMO they are the truly all around shoe. I've done everything from thin finger cracks, to roof routes, steep overhangs and slab, all in the same trip, and they worked great for all of it.
La Sportiva doesn't fit my feet either, and were always painful. The Tafira fit like a glove, and are super comfortable. I've worn them on 3 and 4 pitch routes multiple times.
Micah Klesick
From Vancouver, WA
Joined Aug 18, 2013
4,237 points
Administrator
Feb 1, 2016
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slim wrote:
i had a pair of tatankas for a day and they were absolutely terrible at vertical climbing on small holds. they have literally zero torsional stiffness. at the end of one pitch (that wasn't even that difficult...) the shoe had rotated around my foot so much that the toes were literally sticking up in the air (like little dutch boy wooden shoes). i have a pair of ras, and i like them quite a bit - although they are velcro, so they might not be what you are looking for. it took a little bit to get used to them on small holds, but once i figured out how to line my foot up a little differently on the hold than with other shoes, they have been remarkably precise.


You're right Slim. They definitely don't edge as well as the Ra/Masai. They are more sensitive though (imo). I haven't found too much difference between the Ra and Masai other than the closure system. They perform almost identically and fit very well. The Masai has become my go-to crack shoe for everything rattly fingers and above. The Ra for pretty much everything else.
Jake Jones
From Richmond, VA
Joined Jul 30, 2011
1,216 points
Feb 1, 2016
I think it's odd that you want a technical edging shoe to upgrade from what is essentially a comfort all day shoe.

I had 4 pairs of AF's. I thought they were OK some days, garbage most days. Every shoe suggested here is better than those. It's a sweet position to be in, unless you buy bunny slippers, you're going to be happy.
highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion
From Colorado
Joined Oct 29, 2012
43 points
Feb 1, 2016
In the Scarpa lineup I'd recommend the Boostic, even though it's a velcro & expensive. It edges (not "smedge", a technique less useful when you need to stand tall on vertical to slightly overhanging walls) better than anything else in the Scarpa/Sportiva line up.

Some like the Instinct Lace, or the Vapor Lace. For me, while they perform very well new, the last softens up quite quickly. The Instinct Lace is quite a good smedger though... Scarpa is releasing updated versions of both, so that may change.
reboot
From Westminster, CO
Joined Jul 17, 2006
163 points
Feb 1, 2016
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I know you said sportiva don't fit your feet but have you tried the katana lace? They are wider than your typical sportiva shoe and for me, edge better than anything else. Don Ferris
From Eldorado Springs
Joined Nov 27, 2012
143 points
Feb 1, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Destroyer of popcorn
20 kN wrote:
On that note, I found a pair of Bandet laceups on eBay for a good price. Any idea how sensitive they are? From what I read, they edge well and they should fit my feet well as all other Evolv shoes do, but I am wondering if they are sensitive enough to actually feel anything. It's always a constant struggle with sensitivity and edging power since both are very important yet you cant really have both as one tends to decrease the other.


The Bandits are definitely more sensitive than the Quests, and IMO hold their own on technical edging. Personally I think the discontinued Pontas II laceups are one of the best edging shoes I've used. They're not as sensitive as Bandits though.

What size do you wear? I have a pair of Bandit laceups in good condition, size 10 that I'd sell you for $20+shipping. PM me if you want pics of them.

Doug
Doug Lintz
From Kearney, NE
Joined Apr 19, 2004
1,206 points
Administrator
Feb 1, 2016
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The Tenaya Inti is the best thin edging shoe I've ever used, but it's velcro. Monomaniac
From Morrison, CO
Joined Oct 26, 2006
17,844 points


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