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The North End
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bail Safe T 
Be Sharp Or B Flat T 
Big Plum (the Girdle Traverse of Cathedral Ledge), The T 
Bird's Nest T 
Childs Play T 
Exiles in Babylon T,S 
Generation X T,TR 
Jack The Ripper T 
Kiddy Crack T 
Knights in White Satin S 
Liger, The T 
Mantleshelf Problem T 
Merrill's Variation T 
Possessed, The T 
Post Mortem T,S 
Raising The Roof T 
Recluse T 
Recluse Traverse T 
Roof aka The Corner, The T 
Slot, The T 
They Died Laughing T 
Thresher T,S 
Unsorted Routes:


YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 85'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: L Cote D Arey11/4/68 FFA Henry Barber, Sept 1971
Page Views: 4,123
Submitted By: lee hansche on Feb 28, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (71)
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Unknown climber on a very hot day in August, 2007.


Recluse is an awesome route. The moderate climbing is better than the crux, but the crux is a fun boulder problem in its own right.

The start is hard for the grade, period. Some have called it 5.11b. Others call it "solid" 5.10. After the first two or three moves, the locks and jams are bomber and you can cruise one of the best moderate cracks at the crag to the top. Move left at one point up high to join the finish of Bird's Nest.


To the right of Bird's Nest (5.9), you will see a thin finger crack up a short steep section of rock leading up to a beautiful and more moderate hand crack.


Small gear down low, then standard hand crack gear to the top.

Photos of Recluse Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The business section of Recluse...interesting beta...
BETA PHOTO: The business section of Recluse...interesting beta...

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 23, 2016
By Ladd
Apr 20, 2007
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

An interesting Top-rope variation goes out left before the mantle at the place where the super small crack splits off left. Follow the crack left then place a couple super small pieces (if leading, consider bringing your small steel triangle nuts (or borrowing them))
mantle on make-believe holds and let out a gasp of relief after the mantle. Continue up to anchors/tree.
By m-earle
From: USA
Sep 17, 2007

I believe you are reffering to "Failsafe," a line that breaks left off of "birds nest." I could be wrong, its been a while.
By john strand
From: southern colo
Jul 1, 2008

Paul Ross used to say" a good intro to a hard 5.10 move", I would say a better intro to a 5.11 move. Tricky but good. Henry won a six pack doing the ffa of this.
Failsafe is the other route, a tough and scantily protected line
By Mike Thompson
From: Manchester NH
Jun 2, 2009

i heard about henry's win yesterday lol but i wanna try it on aid :) looks like a blast :)
By Kayte Knower
Sep 10, 2009

In keeping with so many NH finger cracks, this one packed a lot more punch than I expected from the ground. I'm not sure that I figured out the trick beta though. Definitely a fun line with great pro and nice movement.
By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Sep 11, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

isn't it, great route that doesn't as much lead traffic as it should. Set that first nut and you can fall till you get the move, then it's like a .9 to the top.
By RyderS Stroud
From: Dali, Yunnan Province, China
Jul 27, 2014

You can sink a small nut and #1 cam in to free yourself to reef on the crux moves all you want. Put your bouldering hat on for a few moves, and once you're in the crack above, the hard stuff is over. A little funkiness at the top out to the slab may surprise you, but nothing horrible.

Make like Henry Barber and friends and wager some beer on a send!
By Eric Chabot
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 19, 2014
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

Awesome route. I heard that with some tricky beta the crux is 10+. Felt really really hard.
By Peter Lewis
From: Bridgton, Maine
Sep 10, 2015

By Russ Keane
Sep 28, 2015

Really fun line. After the brutal crux, the crack is just as good as the other .9's on this wall, and offers some variety to them taboot. If you have to aid through the crux, it's worth it to try your hand at the rest of this very cool climb.
By Zac St. Jules
From: New Hampshire
May 14, 2016
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Because there is really only one move that is strenuous Im hesitant to agree with the consensus of 11a. The climbing after the start is only 5.8.
By Michael NH
May 23, 2016

Great route if the north end is busy. It'd be easy to aid through the crux to reach the good lock, then you have a 5.8 crack to yourself.

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