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Another exercise in continuous small hold climbing. This route begins at the end of pitch one of Playing on the Freeway
. The best way to do this route is to combine it with the first pitch of Playing on the Freeway. Due to the short nature of the pitches, it is also possible to entirely skip the bolted belay and combine both pitches into a single long pitch (best value for the money).
Pitch 1: Do the first pitch of Playing on the Freeway
(11c) and belay at the bolted anchor (or continue on for a more challenging overall pitch).
Pitch 2: Follow bolts up and slightly right, then back slightly left, ultimately joining David where it comes onto the face from the arete. This section is characterized by continuous thin edging/smearing on slightly loose rock. Do it ten times and you'll probably do it ten different ways due to the changing nature of the holds.
Bolts, and gear to 3" for the second pitch.
Aug 12, 2014
You'd better have really strong finger nails to pull off this one. Went I did it I pressed all my nails together like a cliff hanger and drove them straight down into every dime edge. The hard part was getting the feet to stay put, and dumping full weight into each placement was key...that along with "ankle lock." There was a constant threat of tipping backward, especially in the .12a, which left you prying into the wall with that cluster of finger nails, which felt like they would separate from the nail bed at any time!! Good luck pulling this route off if you do not have any finger nails!!! And, move that chalk bag to the front...just sayin'...'cuz reaching to the rear could tip you over backwards!!