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Reckless Abandon Direct 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a R [details]
FA: Doug Reed
Page Views: 190
Submitted By: Neil Rankin on May 13, 2015

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Houston Hanner about to merge onto the regular Rec...

Description 

This is the direct start to Reckless Abandon, and it is independent climbing for the first 50'. Where the regular Reckless traverses in from the left, this starts directly underneath an arete below the upper crack of Reckless. Power up to some big holds, get some creative gear, and then do a couple of long, tricky cruxes. Get pro wherever you can. At about 30' there is a very good rest and from here it is about 5.9+ R up the scoop before merging with the regular Reckless.

Location 

50' to the climber's right of the shared start of the regular Reckless Abandon, Nutsweat, and Death Wish.

Protection 

Originally there was a piton in the lower half but it fell out years ago. The gear that fits in its old location is better anyway. Now the entire route is protected with natural gear.
Nuts, Cams to 2.5 inches, Tricams to #2.5. Double ropes are helpful.


Photos of Reckless Abandon Direct Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Houston Hanner in the business on Reckless Abandon...
Houston Hanner in the business on Reckless Abandon...

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