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Rebuffat's Arete 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 190'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Joe O'Laughlin, Steve Turner, 1968
Page Views: 7,075
Submitted By: Joshinator on Apr 17, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (232)
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AS mounting the arete after a wild ride.

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  • Description 

    This is most popularly done as a variation to the fifth pitch of Rewritten. From the dead tree belay of Rewritten, avoid the chossy gully and head straight out right on to the edge of the arete. There is more protection than would first appear. Have fun peeking over the edge and head right up to the top. Then carefully downclimb 5-10 feet to the notch. It is 80'.

    It can also be done from lower on Rewritten, right after the hand traverse and finger crack on pitch 4. Instead of moving left, head straight up the arete. It is 190', PG-13.

    It can also be accessed from Tower Corner Exit. Reach the arete by moving left up a ramp system, then follow to the top as above. It is 130'.


    Standard Eldorado rack.

    Photos of Rebuffat's Arete Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up at the spectacular arete
    Looking up at the spectacular arete
    Rock Climbing Photo: Rewritten Variation awesomeness!!!
    Rewritten Variation awesomeness!!!
    Rock Climbing Photo: Unknown climber hanging out near the top of Rebuff...
    Unknown climber hanging out near the top of Rebuff...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down the arete. The top of Rewritten's 4th...
    Looking down the arete. The top of Rewritten's 4th...

    Comments on Rebuffat's Arete Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Clint Locks
    From: Boulder
    Apr 8, 2014

    Not sure this pitch deserves its own page. It really is just a variation to Rewritten's pitch 5, albeit the preferred one. If we start adding a page to MP for every variation to every climb in Eldo (and beyond), I'm pretty sure the servers will crash and burn in a brilliant fireball of 1s and 0s.
    By William Thiry
    From: Lakewood, CO
    Oct 4, 2014
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    Simply brilliant pitch.
    By Jeff Welch
    From: Denver, CO
    Aug 11, 2015

    A good pitch, but agree that it is a variation on an existing route and shouldn't be listed as its own page.
    By Mike Wilkinson
    From: Lexington, KY
    Jul 5, 2017

    Had a 0.4 walk from rope drag about halfway up the arete, and my partner was unable to retrieve it. If someone with more skill or patience is able to snag it, shoot me a PM. Would be happy to pay for it to get shipped and will get you some beer for your trouble!
    By MAKB
    From: Potrero Chico, MEX
    Aug 28, 2017

    Where does the name come from?

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