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Rebirth 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Derrick Peppers, Harrison Ruffin, July 2014.
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,482
Submitted By: Derrick Peppers on Aug 11, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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Heather on "Rebirth". Four bolts

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route makes a good option for those wanting something a little different from the usual smith face climbing or wanting to learn chimney tech. crux is prob the start or the finish depending on climbers height. Recommended stick clip. The chockstone in the crack is pretty solid (we gave it some serious testing) but I would still recommend doing it without using it. Enjoy!

Location 

The large Chimney 15 feet to the left of Chain Reaction. Look for bolts on the outside edge of the wide chimney.

Protection 

4 Bolts. shares anchor with Ancylostoma.


Photos of Rebirth Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Heather, working her way up. After the fourth bolt...
Heather, working her way up. After the fourth bolt...

Comments on Rebirth Add Comment
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By Mike Dalby
From: Bend, OR
Sep 3, 2014

I'm a little confused about the location of this route. What's the difference between it and Rattlesnake Chimney?
By Derrick Peppers
From: everywhere
Sep 10, 2014

You can't protect Rebirth with natual pro. Rebirth is much better rock than the inside of the chimney. They are about 20 feet seperated between Rattlesnake and Rebirth but both are chimney climbs. that way trad climbers can go up the dirty inside hole and sport climbers can experience the exposed wider chimney on the outside edge. Nothing but posotive feedback regarding the quality of the climb so far. Thx for your feedback Mike. Cheers:)
By Richmond C
Jun 18, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

What a fun route. My first time in a chimney. The hardest part was certainly getting into the chimney. I fell a few times and was glad that I'd already clipped the first bolt with a stick clip. There are some nasty ledges that I would not want to fall on. Once in the chimney, the route is very mental. The bolts are close to the edge of the chimney and you can feel quite exposed going that far out if you are not used to chimneys. That being said, you should follow the bolts, there is much more purchase out towards the outside edge.
By Joshua Burns 1
From: Yosemite, ca
Sep 17, 2015

Honestly, I love this route. There's nothing particularly unique or outlandishly special about it, but I do it every time I've been to Smith since it was put up. The bolt line puts you out a lot further than the line one would normally take, placing the leader in a slightly more exposed, and stretched into a wide chimney. The chockstone is fun moving around...but why is the anchor so high?!? Was there no place better for less rope drag?
By Ben Stabley
From: Portland, OR
Oct 27, 2016

Definitely a great unique addition to Smith.

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