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Reasonable Richard 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 130'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: 1989 - Tim Olson, Neal Olsen, Jim Davis
Page Views: 187
Submitted By: Stephen Sh on Sep 9, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: Looking up from the trail

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

In recent years Reasonable Richard has been known for its thick carpet of moss, abundant blackberry canes and shrubs, and non-existent pro. In September 2016 it received a cleaning which exposed cracks for slotting gear and a couple of fixed pins. It’s now quite reasonable and provides fun access to some classic 5.10 routes above.

Reasonable Richard starts approx. 40’ east of the third tunnel. It follows left-trending low-angled slabs to a vertical shallow dihedral ending below Blood Sweat and Smears, Flying Circus, and Flying Swallow.

Follow the low angle slabs (4th and easy 5th class) past a fixed pin and then look for cracks and pods for cams and nuts. After 25 meters, the route transitions to vertical at a shallow right facing corner. At the vertical section, look for a fixed angle pin which can be backed up with a cam, then a 3/8 bolt, followed by discontinuous cracks and pods that accept stoppers and cams up to 1.5 inches. The RR anchor consists of 2 recent good bolts with Metolius rap hangers and a collection of old bolts from an earlier era. Return to the trail with a 35 meter rappel on a single 70m rope, or 60m rope and some easy down climbing.

Location 

Starts approx. 40’ east of the third tunnel.

Protection 

Cams and nuts to 1.5 inches. The cracks on Reasonable Richard are discontinuous and open for protection every couple of meters. You’ll need to be alert for gear placements and use them when they appear. The pro in the beta photos are a mix of cams, TCUs, and nuts.


Photos of Reasonable Richard Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Upper, vertical 15 meters of Reasonable Richard af...
BETA PHOTO: Upper, vertical 15 meters of Reasonable Richard af...
Rock Climbing Photo: Reasonable Richard & Local Access Only Beta Photo
BETA PHOTO: Reasonable Richard & Local Access Only Beta Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Reasonable Richard lower section during 2016 clean...
BETA PHOTO: Reasonable Richard lower section during 2016 clean...

Comments on Reasonable Richard Add Comment
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By Topher Dabrowski
Aug 19, 2017
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

There is a nice clean swath of rock leading up to the vertical section of this route. The first pro on this route happens fairly low in easy terrain where one passes an old Bugaboo piton. The route slowly gets steeper and a few small cam placements exist. The piton beside the hollow block is now gone and replaced by a bolt. Easy movement brings one to a second bolt 3/8" which is original. Past that the gear is tricky and the movement not always obvious. I prefer to call this route Tricky Dick.

Gear 0.2-0.5 Camalot Sizes
Offset Nuts
Peanuts/Micro Nuts
Ball Nuts handy

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