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Realm of the Overhang S 

Realm of the Overhang 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Dave and Mike Hatchet,1991
Page Views: 1,200
Submitted By: Brian Quiter on May 8, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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past the technical crux, but the pump is just begi...

Description 

The 11a variation of Realm of the Overhang starts in the center of the overhung face and moves straight left to the second bolt. This is the crux. From there, climbing eases for 20 feet before you follow an overhung crack up and right to the anchors. The top part is very pumpy.

There is also an 11c variation that ascends the VERY overhung left side of the wall and meets the main route after the third bolt. I found clipping the third bolt to be quite difficult as did Aron. Interesting falls can result.

Protection 

9 bolts to 2 closing cold shuts


Photos of Realm of the Overhang Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Realm of the Overhang just before the crux
Realm of the Overhang just before the crux
Rock Climbing Photo: Pumped and Punished- I should sport climb more...
Pumped and Punished- I should sport climb more...
Rock Climbing Photo: Brian on the super-overhung .11c variation of Real...
Brian on the super-overhung .11c variation of Real...

Comments on Realm of the Overhang Add Comment
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By ccmski body
From: Seattle, WA
Nov 6, 2009
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

although the technical crux of the route is low, its the increasing pump on this steep climb that will get ya
By Nukem
From: Fort Lauderdale, Florida
Oct 27, 2012

has anyone found this a bitch to clean? any suggestions on the best way to get the draws off, the way we did seemed harder than the climb itself
By Ima Fred Knot
From: Victoria, Seychelles
Nov 2, 2012

Best way - Have the second climb and clean the route is the easiest way.
Alt way - Once you've topped out, clip a draw/sling from you to the other side of the rope to stay near the gear while lowering. At the last bolt you clean, clip to that bolt and unclip from the rope, then finally unclip from the bolt and enjoy the swing :)

IFK

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