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Really Really Ridiculously Good Looking 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Greg Barnes, Karin Wuhrmann, 3/05
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,849
Submitted By: Greg Barnes on Dec 12, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Fun face with great incut holds, and if you're willing to run it out a little bit on a short section of 5.8 hand crack at the top, the only sport climb on the wall. The bolts are very hard to spot at first.


Located on the tall right side of the wall, up the center of the clean face.


11 bolts, one or two hand size cams, 2 bolt anchor with mussy hooks.

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By Jeff Mahoney
From: Santa Barbara, CA
May 14, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Definitely worth the scramble; one of the best routes in the Hills and a good measure for a solid 10a route. The crack at the top is short, lower-angle and can be climbed through to the anchors (or bring a single 2" piece if you want more piece of mind)
By Ken H
From: Granite, UT
Jun 6, 2012

Kind of loose and chossy. Expect this one to get harder as more and more holds rip off.
By BAd
Apr 10, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Ken must be smoking something not so good. This route, however, is wonderful--clean rock, nice edges, and pleasently sustained. I've done a lot (most?) 10a's in the Hills, and this is definitely one of the better ones. A single gold Camalot is all you need for the crack at the top. The setting is excellent, and the wall gets good afternoon shade. Go do it!

By Russ Walling
Feb 19, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Similar to the route to the right, in grade and quality. Lots of bolts. Maybe one tricky move down low and then just weave your way up the various features to the anchor.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Feb 20, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Good route, better quality rock than some of the neighbors with limited loose rock. Thoughtful and plentiful bolt placements courtesy of Greg & Karin. No real crux, hauled up a few pieces for the crack above as suggested but it's bomber hands with features all around plus only 8' or so above the last bolt.
By G Halsne
Apr 27, 2015

Kens comments Circa 2012 lead me to believe that he was on Cattle Drive, as we made the same mistake. The 2008 Guide doesn't show C.D.

The crack at the top is really very good. But 8 ft is a bit shy. I would say a solid 15-20 feet from the last bolt to the anchors.
By Randy in Ridgecrest
From: Inyokern, CA
Oct 7, 2016
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Good route, a couple tricky balance spots in the first four bolts than long enjoyable mellow to the anchor

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