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Slim Shady Wall
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Real Muthaphukkin G's 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Lee Terveen
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall. Stays shady most of the live long day.
Page Views: 90
Submitted By: BBQ on Aug 4, 2015

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Description 

All you pimps, posers, wiggers and hipsters better check yo' selves cuz this bitch is the real deal!

If you are an aspiring or accomplished five ten climber be sure to add this to your Black Hills wish list. A slabby black start with just one or two small, tweaky holds leads to a shit ton of super huge pockets, ledges, jugs and whatever else is considered big in the hood.

This is a long of dong route with quite a few thought provoking moves that happen after good rests. Once you see blonde rock, move left of the bolt line to grab left handed sidepulls for damn near the whole climb. Stay cool when you encounter a well-bolted, bulgy crux in the top three fourths of the route that requires power and just enough bravery to keep it real.

Gain the anchors using the dragon teeth holds and don't be afraid to reach as high as you can, make a high step, and clip the anchors at your chest. The moves and holds are all there. You will definitively want to milk this one for all its worth.

Location 

Left most route on the Slim Shady Pillar. (Left of the Original Route that is listed in Cronin's new guidebook)

NOTE! This is a face climb. Entering the chimney around the left hand corner is not recommended.

Protection 

Take a dozen quick draws. Anchors are open.


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