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Y Crack, The T 

Real McCoy 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,946
Submitted By: John J. Glime on Sep 25, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (55)
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About to pass the last bolt before placing protect...


This is a really fun route, I am not sure why I am not giving it 3 stars... perhaps because I liked Main Crack so much.

It is 5.7, but the moves are tenuous in places, and it is exciting for a bolted route.

This climb starts about 30 feet up hill from the Main Crack and climbs the face following 4 bolts until you reach a left facing corner. This corner (which turns into a crack as it approaches the two bolt anchor) takes small cams and nuts.


There are 5 bolts, plus a couple of medium to large nuts for the section after the last bolt..

Two bolts/chains for an anchor. I rapped with a 60 meter rope and set up a toprope easily.

Photos of Real McCoy Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: 21 The Real McCoy 5.7
BETA PHOTO: 21 The Real McCoy 5.7
Rock Climbing Photo: After the lower slaby face the middle section has ...
After the lower slaby face the middle section has ...

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 10, 2017
By Lee Jensen
Feb 15, 2005
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This route is doable without any trad gear. However, the bolts are fairly far apart and the first couple clips might make you nervous unless you climb well above this level. There is definitely the possibility of a nasty crater fall.
By Perin Blanchard
From: Orem, UT
Aug 26, 2006

5 bolts before the flake on top. I placed two nuts after the last bolt (and clipped the manky old piton).
By Alex Headman
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 7, 2008
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

We climbed this a couple weeks back. There isn't a pin in the route anymore, the only fixed protection is the 4 bolts, which was a bit of a shocker. Be sure and bring some nuts to protect the final 30-40 feet.
By AJ Dexter
From: Portland, OR
Sep 5, 2008

There isn't a pin anywhere that I could find on the final section after the fifth bolt. I placed a #7 BD stopper to protect.
By Tristan Higbee
From: Ogden, UT
Oct 5, 2008

Really fun climb, and more thought-provoking that most 5.7s. Not a gimme at the grade. As others have said, the piton is no longer there. I placed a nut and a cam in the crack above the bolts. The spacing between the bolts may cause a beginner leader's pulse to quicken a bit, especially if you're used to the close spacing of newer routes. All in all, a great climb!
By Jordan Harmer
Apr 1, 2012

Climbed this yesterday without any trad gear. It was doable, but perhaps not the best idea; the bolts were fairly spaced, as others have mentioned, especially the last one. Probably 20-25 ft between the last bolt and the chains. Anchor bolts starting to look a little rusty, but still solid. I don't think I'd climb this again without a few nuts on my rack.
By Dakota Belliston
From: Spanish Fork, UT
Feb 18, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I love this route ! Great climb that has it all their. Lots of small crimp grips. I would not reccemond the lead climb on this wall secondary to safety. Last 30 ft is without bolts meaning if you slip you got a good 60 ft drop. Could use another 1-2 bolts to make it a good lead climb. Be safe & have fun !!!
By ClimbingUte
Apr 28, 2014
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Great route, really fun! I've noticed the run-out on the last bolt. Otherwise, it seems harder than the 5.7 rating it's given. Climbing other routes on this wall like Main Crack (.7) & Call it a Knight (.10a) as well as everything on Red Slab, I would suggest it's closer to a .9 (or .8+) in comparison. Just my two cents.
By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Mar 29, 2016

To protect getting to the first bolt, you can traverse in from the left using gear.
By Benjamin Anderson
Sep 20, 2017
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13

Hey guys, I was just climbing up here the other day and might have left my jamming gloves at the base, or near the base of Main Crack (both of which are a blast by the way). I live in Provo but am a full time student and can't afford to just run over there real quick till maybe the weekend. I've had a bit of stuff stolen in the canyon so if anyone is heading up that way I would really appreciate you getting a hold of those for me. Thank you so much!


By Brock Jones
From: Provo, UT
Oct 10, 2017
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Felt just a tad easier than Call it a Knight, so I'd say this .9. I'd definitely recommend bringing some gear to protect the section between the final bolt and the chains. I placed a .3 and .4 X4, though a medium nut would work as well.

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