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Real Crabapples (aka Almont Chimney?) 

M5

   
Type:  Trad, Mixed, 2 pitches, Grade II
Original: M5 [details]
FA: Austen Beason, Kyle Juszczyk?
Page Views: 322
Submitted By: Grimpeur on Jan 12, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Pitch 1, M4. The chockstone crux is just above the...

Description 

This is a decent, mixed chimney climb close to the road and to town. We did it in January with powdery snow and winter conditions, so the ice was thin and sporadic at best but still offered good climbing. There might be more ice towards spring.

Scramble a few hundred feet up snow past one ledge to where the couloir narrows down. Pitch 1, M4, ascends runnels and corners to a small chockstone crux. Belay above the chockstone. Pitch 2, M5, follows a steep, narrow chimney/dihedral to the topout.

Hike down skier's left around the buttress to the road.

Location 

It is in lower Taylor Canyon, ~1/2... past the post office when leaving Almont. Look for the first large buttress that nearly reaches the road. The route is the obvious, deep chimney in the center of the buttress.

Protection 

1 set of stoppers, some large hexes, a single set of cams from 0.3-#3. The ice was too thin/sporadic for any gear.


Photos of Real Crabapples (aka Almont Chimney?) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Nearing the finish of pitch 2, M5.
BETA PHOTO: Nearing the finish of pitch 2, M5.
Rock Climbing Photo: Real Crabapples, M5, is the chimney in the center ...
BETA PHOTO: Real Crabapples, M5, is the chimney in the center ...

Comments on Real Crabapples (aka Almont Chimney?) Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ben Ammon
From: Gunnison, CO
Feb 18, 2016

Linked both pitches with a 60, this is a surprisingly fun climb!
By TuFF GonG
From: gunnison Colorado
Feb 21, 2017

Isn't this the Almont Chimney? Either way, it gets climbed semi-often, I've probably climbed it a dozen times over the years. M3?

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