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Joker, The 
Real Big Drip 

Real Big Drip 

WI6 M8+

   
Type:  Mixed, Ice, 5 pitches, 800', Grade V
Original: WI6 M8+ [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 912
Submitted By: Dave Rone on Jan 2, 2014

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2nd pitch, wild ice features! Photo: Jon Jugenheim...

Description 

A magnificent line that you can't miss as you drive into the Ghost. It seems to form up every year, but with subtle differences, usually to the first ice pitch. Note: if the first pitch ice isn't hanging nearly to lowest prominent roof, don't bother with the route. The bolts will end before you can get to the ice.

Pitch 1 (bolted) is the crux. It has gotten much harder as holds and flakes have broken off, is dead vertical to overhanging, and is now approaching M9. It is much harder than the M8 pitches on Cryophobia and Man Yoga. Finding good holds is difficult and strenuous, and it seems that when the tools are good the feet are bad, and vice versa. Belay off ice or a bolted station if you can find it.

Pitch 2 is a great ice pitch that comes in differently from year to year. Some years it is straightforward, other years it can sport some big overhangs. Climb to a bolted station at the top of the ice

Pitch 3 (bolted) starts up left of the bolted station, works through a small overhang (M8-) and then traverses up and right on cool rock features to a bolted belay behind the ice curtain.

Pitch 4 makes an exciting transition onto the ice curtain and then up to the ice ramp above.

Pitch 5 is a long pitch of steep ice.

Location 

From the bottom of the Big Hill, cross the flats to a well defined road that takes you straight south to Orient Point, and a track that follows a cut-line up a small hill to the right. Park here.

Hike up the track for 10-15 minutes to what is sometimes a parking area, then diagaonal left through the trees until you intersect the top of the Joker/Hooker drainage (20 min). Hike along the top until you find the slope reasonable to descend. Continue up the streambed, then go left at the intersection of the RBD drainage.

Eventually leave the drainage and hike up left through a couple small rock bands to the base of the route.

Anywhere from 1.5 to 3 hours, depending on snow conditions.

Protection 

Both rock pitches are bolted, as are the belay stations. Take 15 draws as well as some long runners, along with 12-15 screws. 70m ropes will get you down in three rappels, stay to the climbers left. First rappel from the top (v-thread) of the ice to the ramp. Second (v-thread) goes to the bolts at the top of pitch 2. Third to the ground. Use caution when passing hanging daggers.


Photos of Real Big Drip Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The crux of the third pitch.  Pulling the roof is ...
The crux of the third pitch. Pulling the roof is ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Fighting the pump on the 1st pitch. Ended well bel...
Fighting the pump on the 1st pitch. Ended well bel...
Rock Climbing Photo: Big Drip from the Ghost.  The Joker visible on the...
Big Drip from the Ghost. The Joker visible on the...
Rock Climbing Photo: Big Drip from below. The rock section felt more li...
Big Drip from below. The rock section felt more li...
Rock Climbing Photo: Big Drip from the approach. Lower ice section not ...
Big Drip from the approach. Lower ice section not ...
Rock Climbing Photo: This photo shows Kris Gorny (at about the same hei...
This photo shows Kris Gorny (at about the same hei...
Rock Climbing Photo: This photo show the flake to the left of the bolt ...
This photo show the flake to the left of the bolt ...
Rock Climbing Photo: The Real Big Drip
BETA PHOTO: The Real Big Drip

Comments on Real Big Drip Add Comment
Show which comments
By dirtbag
From: Bellingham, WA
Feb 12, 2016

any idea what condition the bolts are in?
By Dave Rone
Administrator
From: Eau Claire, Wis
Feb 16, 2016

Climbed the route on 3/9/16 and aside from a couple loose hangers, the bolts are good. Be cool if someone brings a wrench up and gives those nuts some turns.