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Reading Between the Lines T 

Reading Between the Lines 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Austin Sobotka
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 120
Submitted By: Austin Sobotka on Mar 15, 2017

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BETA PHOTO: The line

Description 

It might look like there's nothing between the lines, but if you stare hard enough something might appear in those white spaces.

I redpointed the route a few years ago, but, being a greedy first ascentionist, I had decided to add a direct start to the route and postpone posting it until it had been completed. One thing led to another and I was in Tucson before I could get the direct start redpointed. Today, I stopped by on my way back from Sedona, re-climbed it, and realized that the direct start was contrived. Anyways, almost three years later and the route gets posted.

Reading Between the Lines is hands-down one of the most unique things I've ever climbed. It may be short, but it's straight up burly and nearly every move will have your mind twisted: kneebars, slopers, underclings, heel-toe cams, inverted handjams, fistjams, and some crimps take you through the series of flaring horizontals. Some serious trickery is required to keep the route within the proposed grade.

For any hardman driving by, this is definitely worth the five minute approach.

Location 

RBtL uses the rightmost bolt on the wall (to date). Start about 10 feet right of the bolt. Climb up some easy ledges until you reach the first horizontal, plug in some gear and work up to, and past, the bolt. Traverse to the right end of the last visible horizontal from the ground (about 5 feet above the bolt), bust some wild moves and try to not fall off while clipping the chains.

Protection 

Minimum (to make it safe):
1 .75 camalot
1 #1 camalot
1 #2 camalot
1 #3 camalot
1 #4 camalot

For an onsight attempt I would recommend doubles of #1, #2, and #3s, and maybe a #5.
Extend your pieces or suffer at the top. Tape is a good idea. Rap from chains (which can easily be reached from above for a TR).


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By Hugo Almanza
From: Tucson, Arizona
Mar 31, 2017

It was rad belaying you on the send that day! You crushed it! Stoked to see this route up here :] . I'll find the route info of day of ascent. I wrote it down that day after you sent. I think you were originally called it Literary Masochist, but the new name is better fitting in mi opinion haha.

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