|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 50'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c PG13 [details]|
|FA:||Bob Gaines and Pat Horan, December 1989|
|Submitted By:||Bob Gaines on Apr 13, 2015|
|Comments on Read My Lips||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
Apr 14, 2015
Here's my Pro Beta:
.5 or #1 Tricam to start (...You DO use these, right?...)
Red TCU or Yellow Alien
...Then 2 bolts to the top, with a .10- move at the last bolt
So, no need to haul the wall rack up this tidy little gem. I think the heel hook move in that "rock box" is one of the coolest, most novel, little moves in the Monument...er...Park. (I left Cali. when it was still a monument, and there was no road circling Intersection rock.)
I'm glad to see that Bob gives up the .11b, because I thought it was pretty stout and in your face. Better warm up real well, because the flash pump comes a knockin' while you fiddle with the good pro...have a spotter/crash pad...just sayin'...
Best to rap with one rope...fast and less sketchy than the down climb.