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West Wall Inner (Jane's Addiction Area)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Avant Cave T 
Avant Chain S 
Avant Savant T 
Avant Yvonne (aka Read my Flips) S 
Avanti T 
Chain Gang TR 
Don't Touch Jessica's Crack TR 
Jane's Addiction S 
Jessica's Crack T 
Read My Lips T 
Shaking Hands with the Unemployed T 
Smashing Pumpkins S 

Read My Lips 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c PG13 [details]
FA: Bob Gaines and Pat Horan, December 1989
Page Views: 150
Submitted By: Bob Gaines on Apr 13, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Peter Hayes above the crux, 1991.

Description 

Located 40 feet right of Avanti.

Climb a steep bulge past 3 horizontals to a slab with 2 bolts. The crux is the start.

Protection 

Pro to 2.5 inches, 2 bolts.

2-bolt anchor at the top (Rap 50 ft.)


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By dnaiscool
Apr 14, 2015

Here's my Pro Beta:

.5 or #1 Tricam to start (...You DO use these, right?...)

Red TCU or Yellow Alien

#2 Camalot

...Then 2 bolts to the top, with a .10- move at the last bolt

So, no need to haul the wall rack up this tidy little gem. I think the heel hook move in that "rock box" is one of the coolest, most novel, little moves in the Monument...er...Park. (I left Cali. when it was still a monument, and there was no road circling Intersection rock.)

I'm glad to see that Bob gives up the .11b, because I thought it was pretty stout and in your face. Better warm up real well, because the flash pump comes a knockin' while you fiddle with the good pro...have a spotter/crash pad...just sayin'...

Best to rap with one rope...fast and less sketchy than the down climb.

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